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Thread: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

  1. #1

    DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    Hey DKOV, what would you suggest is the most cost effective route to obtaining the Ferrari OEM parts below.

    Interior:
    Ferrari Dash, Center Cluster & Center Console Inserts
    Ferrari Seat Belts
    Ferrari Emblems
    Ferrari Rear View Mirror
    Ferrari Headliner Light

    Exterior:
    Ferrari Wheels (allready have, but might need another set)
    Ferrari Side View Mirrors
    Ferrari Emblems
    Ferrari Valve Stem Caps
    Ferrari Grills
    Ferrari 328 Quarter Glass

    Performance:
    Ferrari Muffler

    BTW You convinced me I should go the 3.4 DOHC route since I found out there is absolutely no aftermarket performance market for the Quad 4.

    I mapped out what I want to have done to tune it out.

    Engine Work:
    Heads - Polished / TBI Match Ported / Intake & Exhaust Runners Ported / Mill Heads 0.03" / 3 Angle Valve Job
    Block - Polished / Mill Deck 0.03" / Line Hone / Overbore Cylinders 0.03"

    Performance Upgrades:
    Less Restrictive Headers
    Less Restrictive Muffler
    Less Restrictive Air Filter
    Big Bore Throttle Body
    MSD Ignition

    Did you do anything besides the above to get the 3.4 dohc to 325hp? I can't think of any other HP hop up tricks besides slapping on some forced induction .

    hmmmm i think i have one more ;D. Are there higher lift performace cams for this engine?

    BTW. Are you using the stock 2.8 (is this even possible?) or 3.4 throttle body?

  2. #2
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    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    ~[quote]Hey DKOV, what would you suggest is the most cost effective route to obtaining the ~Ferrari OEM parts below.

    Uh oh... Sounds like you're catching the disease as bad as I have!!! You know, there is NO cure for this disease You asked a great question but put two words in there that don't really fit... COST EFFECTIVE. All I can tell you is that all the stuff to make a perfect car can be had, but at a COST that is not always EFFECTIVE.

    I'll just tell you what I've done so far and I can get these parts for you as well. I now have a "guy" that work for a Ferrari Dealership that sells me parts out the back door! Lucky Me!

    ~Interior:
    ~Ferrari Dash, Center Cluster & Center Console Inserts
    I went with a Fiberglass Interior kit, torn from a real F355. Looks alot like the one that's been floating around the Kit Car Forum for a while. I have a sneaky suspicion that they are either the same or a copy of one another. Anyway, I paid only $1000 for mine with Speaker Boxes.

    Now the INSERTS are a different story... I have a couple of ideas for you. One is to BUY the actual Insterts. They are spendy but require NO modifications at all. Everything is in te right place and all the propoer mountings are there for your switches, tabs, lights, etc. Along those lines is the purchase of the center Climate Control Module/Insert as well. I adapted the module from a Ford Aerostar to my Interior and could get everything to work except the temp dial. Recently, I gave up and bought the F355 Climate Control Module and need to set about chasing the wiring down.

    The second is to fabricate your own via FiberGlass, Vivack or even ABS. Not to difficult if you have the tool, time and knowledge. From there, you can cover the parts with Carbon Fiber Decal sheets (looks very real if you get GOOD sheets) and you'll end up with a F355 Challenge looking interior.

    I suppose you could go the route of ACTUAL F355 Challenge Inserts, but they run around $3500 for the Carbon Fiber set!!!

    In any of these cases, I can get them for you or perhaps even fab some for you if you like.

    ~Ferrari Seat Belts

    I went with new SeatBelts from JC Whitney that have a nice big triangular shaped cover, and will bolt them to the top of the fire wall in the stock position. I've also considered using 4 or 5 point harnesses, but if I do, the new seat belts will have to go.

    ~Ferrari Emblems

    I have a full set. All Authentic. They're like $600 and come with every badge on the car, even the Interior Badging and Wheels.

    ~Ferrari Rear View Mirror

    I haven't decided what to do with this yet, but I may buy an authentic unit or just use the Fiero one.

    ~Ferrari Headliner Light

    The Fiero Store sells a Fiberglass Headliner Insert. I purchased this and will upholster it to match the rest of the Interior. In MATERIAL, not Leather. Of course, it will be padded first. Not too expensive either.

    ~Exterior:
    ~Ferrari Wheels (allready have, but might need another set)

    I originally went the route of 17 inch Koenig Rims whcih looked incredible, but I seen a set of Real Rims and HAD to have them. Oh well... 17's are up for sale now. I have an additional set of authentic 355 rims for sale at $2500.

    5 x 105 adapters are needed for the 355 rims to mount to the Fiero. No adapter was needed for the Koenigs.

    ~Ferrari Side View Mirrors

    Use the kit mirrors if on a budget. Starting with these mirrors is a good way to increase the confidense in you Fiberglass skills

    Mid-budget would be to find a set of OEM mirrors from a similar look production auto or truck.

    Full Budget would be to buy REAL mirrors, but at $1700 + that is a steep order. Of course, they are primed and perfect and come with ALL the hardware for mounting. And the REAL factor is there!

    ~Ferrari Emblems

    See Badging above

    ~Ferrari Valve Stem Caps

    You can pick these up from several different places, but I can include them in your badge order if you like. They are around $25 for a set. If you track some down, make sure they are GOOD ones (pewter) at least.

    ~Ferrari Grills

    Cheaper to build your own. The specs are readily available and welding is not that hard. Use strap steel and POWDER COAT it flat black. You can weld two small "loops" into the front for the mounting screws of the prancing horse badge to run through, then bolt them in from behind.

    A REAL grill is more than $1500 and does NOT come with the horsey

    ~Ferrari 328 Quarter Glass

    I don't have the $ on those, I never considered it. I planned on using scratch resistant Vivack or Polycarbonate. I'll check.

    ~Performance:
    ~Ferrari Muffler

    New, they run nearly $1000 but there are shops that will sell "used" (mine had 500 miles on it and was PERFECT) for around $500 - $700. The Muffler I bought was so clean, that running your hands across the body revealed NO DIRT!!! Added benefit is that it mounts, reasonibly easy, directly to a 3.4L DOHC Transplant

    You can also buy the Challenge or Tubi Exhaust upgrade for the 355 but now you're talking 2nd Mortgage! As much as $7500!!!

    ~BTW You convinced me I should go the 3.4 DOHC route since I found out there is absolutely ~no aftermarket performance market for the Quad 4.

    I concur

    ~I mapped out what I want to have done to tune it out.

    ~Engine Work:
    ~Heads - Polished / TBI Match Ported / Intake & Exhaust Runners Ported / Mill Heads 0.03" / 3 ~Angle Valve Job
    ~Block - Polished / Mill Deck 0.03" / Line Hone / Overbore Cylinders 0.03"

    Alltogether, this will cost you around $4000 or so, the bulk of the cost being the headwork and valve work. That portion alone cost me nearly $3000, so be aware. Throttle body (upper and lower) work is pretty economical and has a obvious effect on HP, so it's well worth it.

    Sounds like you're describing MY engine

    ~Performance Upgrades:
    ~Less Restrictive Headers

    The GM Headers on this motor are not 'bad' but you really need better balance, so simply use TWO LEFT HAND headers and fabricate a "Y" pipe to collect. Then route around to the muffler you ultimately choose. You can also, if your budget allows, fab some tuned/ported headers are run two separate exhaust lines out. The REALITY in this option is the LACK OF ROOM once this engine is in the Fiero. It would be much easier if you were building a kit that required a stretch!

    ~Less Restrictive Muffler

    Ferrari Muffler or my FIRST system of 2.5 inch 180 switchbacks with bullets and Monzas.

    ~Less Restrictive Air Filter

    Cold Aire Charger Filter with K&N. Get a Ceramic coated pipe if you can.

    ~Big Bore Throttle Body

    Throttle Body porting is a good thing! I had my 3.4L TDC TB enlarged some 6mm. Makes a big gulp sound petite

    ~MSD Ignition

    There is some speculation as to wether or not this acutally DOES anything to HP, but I can say that with my MSD6 system, I can mess with "retard" to get a couple of more ponies at the high end. Mostly, I wanted it because I have one on my Super Charged Durango R/T. Call me strange

    ~Did you do anything besides the above to get the 3.4 dohc to 325hp? I can't think of any other ~HP hop up tricks besides slapping on some forced induction .

    Hmmm... I had it balanced/blueprinted (for higher revs) and I also added an underdrive pulley, Fuel Pressure riser/regulator, lightweight crank pulley, removed the power steering pump, Super Stat, different (bigger) valve springs which I don't know because that was done before I bought the car, and... I think that's about it. I'll let you know if I've forgotten anything

    ~hmmmm i think i have one more ;D. Are there higher lift performace cams for this engine?

    Ther IS some cam work that can be done, but it's custom. I havn't gone that way because I'm afraid of loosing some of the Low End to this motor. That's another reason why I went back to the pair of left hand headers.

    ~BTW. Are you using the stock 2.8 (is this even possible?) or 3.4 throttle body?

    With the 3.4L PUSH ROD engine, it's possible, but with the DOHC motor, I think not. Well, anthing's possible I suppose but why? The DOHC intake plenums are terrific and when ported/polished and enlarged, there's more than enough air heading the right direction!!!

    Someone I've come to know has a custom intake plenum on his 3.4L DOHC and it is giving him a bit more HP on the high end, but it's just plain ugly and the low end has suffered greatly.

    The God honest truth about the 3.4L DOHC is that came from the factory VERY well tuned! It was balanced to the point that most tuners say WHY, and had all the weight advantage and better oiling of a race engine. I think they missed the boat with the conditions of the intake and trottle body, but that can easily be fixed as we've seen.

    So, now that I've gone through all that and been proud that I'm still Normally Aspirated, I've started the process of adding a Turbo. As I said at the beginning, it's a disease!

    I'll end up adding another $2000 or so to the project but hopefully, at 7 lbs of boost, be adding another 110 HP (that's the math anyway) to the HP numbers!!! How's 400+ HP sound?

    THEN I'll be happey...

    As always, anything I can do to help!

    DKOV -

  3. #3
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    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    Dkov -
    I would recommnmed you get your rear view mirror off of a blazer (If I remember correctly that's where I got mine). Those mirrors have lights map lights built into them, which is very convienent when your car doesn't have a roof!

    Or if you want to go all out there is a company out there (can't remember the name off hand) that makes mirrors for the fiero which have lights built in, auto-dim feature, as well as a digital compass in the top right hand corner! They're about $200, while I paid $20 for mine with only lights.

    Ari

  4. #4

    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    Ferrari Dash, Center Cluster & Center Console Inserts

    I went with a Fiberglass Interior kit, torn from a real F355. *Looks alot like the one that's been floating around the Kit Car Forum for a while. *I have a sneaky suspicion that they are either the same or a copy of one another. *Anyway, I paid only $1000 for mine with Speaker Boxes.
    Where can i pick this up?

    Now the INSERTS are a different story... *I have a couple of ideas for you. *One is to BUY the actual Insterts. *They are spendy but require NO modifications at all. *Everything is in the right place and all the propoer mountings are there for your switches, tabs, lights, etc. *Along those lines is the purchase of the center Climate Control Module/Insert as well. *I adapted the module from a Ford Aerostar to my Interior and could get everything to work except the temp dial. *Recently, I gave up and bought the F355 Climate Control Module and need to set about chasing the wiring down.
    So i should purchase the inserts, then the buttons, swithes & lights ect. seperately?

    Was the replica interior's center cluster and console resessed enough for you to fit the inserts in with a good fit.

    Were you able to get all the functions of the climate control to work? Who did the custom wiring to the harness?

    I suppose you could go the route of ACTUAL F355 Challenge Inserts, but they run around $3500 for the Carbon Fiber set!!!

    In any of these cases, I can get them for you or perhaps even fab some for you if you like.
    I'm not really into carbon fiber so the standard inserts should be fine. Since we seem to be going down the same route, we should hook up e-mail

    Ferrari Headliner Light

    The Fiero Store sells a Fiberglass Headliner Insert. *I purchased this and will upholster it to match the rest of the Interior. *In MATERIAL, not Leather. *Of course, it will be padded first. *Not too expensive either.
    I was actually talking about the 355 light.

    As for the headliner, I know Mr. Mike & Fiero Store sells them. Why not leather? What is in the real car?

    Ferrari Wheels (allready have, but might need another set)

    I originally went the route of 17 inch Koenig Rims whcih looked incredible, but I seen a set of Real Rims and HAD to have them. *Oh well... 17's are up for sale now. *I have an additional set of authentic 355 rims for sale at $2500.

    5 x 105 adapters are needed for the 355 rims to mount to the Fiero. *No adapter was needed for the Koenigs.
    The Koenigs look good, but I'm only interested in the original wheels. I already have the adapters, which were made by wheeladapters.com

    I dont need this untill summer so there's no rush.

    Ferrari Grills

    Cheaper to build your own. *The specs are readily available and welding is not that hard. *Use strap steel and POWDER COAT it flat black. *You can weld two small "loops" into the front for the mounting screws of the prancing horse badge to run through, then bolt them in from behind.

    A REAL grill is more than $1500 and does NOT come with the horsey *
    Where can i get the specs from?

    Ferrari 328 Quarter Glass

    I don't have the $ on those, I never considered it. *I planned on using scratch resistant Vivack or Polycarbonate. *I'll check.
    It's the same glass as the 355 just a lot cheaper.

    Ferrari Muffler

    New, they run nearly $1000 but there are shops that will sell "used" (mine had 500 miles on it and was PERFECT) for around $500 - $700. *The Muffler I bought was so clean, that running your hands across the body revealed NO DIRT!!! *Added benefit is that it mounts, reasonibly easy, directly to a 3.4L DOHC Transplant
    Are you using a cataytic converter?

    I plan to use:

    Two Left Manifolds (extrude hone ported & polished / ceramic coated / thermal wrapped)
    Cross over Y pipe (Extrude hone ported & polished / Ceramic coated)
    Free Flow Catalytic Converter
    Ferrari Muffler
    Dual Chrome Tips

    Less Restrictive Headers

    The GM Headers on this motor are not 'bad' but you really need better balance, so simply use TWO LEFT HAND headers and fabricate a "Y" pipe to collect. *Then route around to the muffler you ultimately choose.
    See above.

    Less Restrictive Air Filter

    Cold Air Charger Filter with K&N. *Get a Ceramic coated pipe if you can.
    Im going to get a custom pipe leaning towards the left air scoop, then I'll route tubing from both air scoops maybe into a fabricated heat shielded box surrounding the cone.

    Big Bore Throttle Body

    Throttle Body porting is a good thing! *I had my 3.4L TDC TB enlarged some 6mm. *Makes a big gulp sound petite
    Dam 6mm. Do you have the 91-95 engine with the attached TBI or the 96-97 engine with it detached.

    MSD Ignition

    There is some speculation as to wether or not this acutally DOES anything to HP, but I can say that with my MSD6 system, I can mess with "retard" to get a couple of more ponies at the high end. *Mostly, I wanted it because I have one on my Super Charged Durango R/T. *Call me strange
    Scrap this. I'll just go with 8.5mm Magnecor Racing Wires with Splitfire Split tip tripple platinum plugs.

    Did you do anything besides the above to get the 3.4 dohc to 325hp?

    Hmmm... *I had it balanced/blueprinted (for higher revs) and I also added an underdrive pulley, Fuel Pressure riser/regulator, lightweight crank pulley, removed the power steering pump, Super Stat, *different (bigger) valve springs which I don't know because that was done before I bought the car, and... I think that's about it. *I'll let you know if I've forgotten anything
    I forgot about that, yea i would have the engine blueprinted and the bottom end balanced.

    I know where to get most of the above:
    Auto Specialties or Twin Dual Cam: Under Drive Crank Pulley
    Twin Dual Cam: Fuel Pressure Riser (dont want to run lean now do we)

    Where did you get the lower temp thermostat? Are there SI tulip shaped valves for this engine? *

    You didnt mention this but are you using Grantelli Motorsports Recalibrated LT1 MAF and did you install a larger trottle plate?

    The God honest truth about the 3.4L DOHC is that came from the factory VERY well tuned! *It was balanced to the point that most tuners say WHY, and had all the weight advantage and better oiling of a race engine. *I think they missed the boat with the conditions of the intake and trottle body, but that can easily be fixed as we've seen.
    They didnt miss the boat they did it on purpose. They initally had this motor ready to leave detroit at 275hp but had to cripple it when they could'nt come up with a decent tranny on launch to handle it. Can you say WARRANTY ;D

    So, now that I've gone through all that and been proud that I'm still Normally Aspirated, I've started the process of adding a Turbo. *As I said at the beginning, it's a disease!

    I'll end up adding another $2000 or so to the project but hopefully, at 7 lbs of boost, be adding another 110 HP (that's the math anyway) to the HP numbers!!! *How's 400+ HP sound? *
    Hey, if you have the cash go for it! the car will still end up 1/4 the cost of the original.

    After the other mods, the compression has to be at least 10.25: 1 - 10.5 : 1. *With a turbo you're adding 7 psi and more fuel. Will you need to rebuild the bottom end or can it handle it?

  5. #5
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    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    Email spiderinteriors@hotmail.com for info about the dash kit pulled off a real one. Tell them Ari sent you :P
    You can check out pics of it at:
    http://www.madmechanics.com/cgi-bin/...num=1013873661

    Ari

  6. #6
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    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    Unique:

    Ari's had somebody pushing a pretty descent looking interior package here on the Kit Car Forum, but it's quite a bit more spendy if memory serves. The kit I purchased is cheaper and it virtually identical. I can probably order it up for you if you like. This Ferrari Underground gets a bit sceptical with having their name handed out I'll let him know you want one and ask if you can contact him directly. If not, I'll handle it for you.

    The replica Interior is a very good match and has all the appropriate recesses for the inserts. I think though, for and exact fit, you may have to spend a little time with the Dremel and seat things in just a bit farther. Once it's upholstered, that difference in thickness may be apparent.

    As for the inserts, buttons, swithes & lights ect. I ended up purchasing them a bit at a time. First the switches, then the push-down bottons, then the top set of switches, etc. I suppose you could just order up the whole set at once, but there is no real discount for doing this. Not for me anyway. I just got my second set of switches in today via UPS!!! God I love those Big Brown Trucks!!!

    I am partial to Carbon Fiber so I've though long and hard about getting that swap option... It's just so darn spendy!!! For $3000, I can buy real Ferrari seats!!! Well, maybe

    In any case, don't waste your time on finding look-alike switches or transplanting the Fiero ones. They are cheap enough to replace authentically and the working function of them is SO COOL! They really make the car feel like $150,000

    The Climate Control box is still a mystery in some cases... Most of the stuff is easily traced down with a current finder but the problem lies in the adaption to the Fiero in some cases. The Temperature Adjust on the Fiero is a Cable driven mechanism while the 355 is electronic. That is a problem so far. I've worked out two ideas on either transplanting the apparatus I pirated from the Aerostar into the 355 box, or using a 600 oz. servo and actuaing it remotely via the dial. Like I said, not worked out yet. However, most of the other things will graft in just fine.

    As for the wiring, I purchased the wiring loom from Ferrari for the 355. They call it a "tunnel loom" and everything plugs in nicely with the corret fittings. At the other end, it's just a matter
    of splicing into the corect wires (after tracing with the current detect) and connecting them to the appropriate fiero wires. Lots of tracking time, but worth it. It;'s actually pretty mindless work.

    I've looked a that panel pretty closely and it has a couple of unique features... Swivel directional lamp as well as main lamp. Ther really isn't much like it, but it could be powered by the same wiring as the Fiero so... Well, havn't bought one yet but will probably go authentic as well.

    Sorry about the headliner misunderstanding... My bad. My understanding is that the headliner upholstery is fabric, not leather. I can't remember for sure... it's been a while since I was in a REAL 355, but I seem to remember fabric. Anyway, that's the route I plan on going simply because of the added cost and the added thickness of padding and leathering rather than just prepping and covering with tight groove black "carpet".


    About the 355 wheels, I've pretty much sold the set I have anyway. I've got a commitment but we'll see if the payment shows. Keep me in mind though, I may be able to get you a set when you are ready. Also, If you come across anyone that wants those Koenigs and tires, keep me in mind.

    I have the grill specs here... uh... they were here. I'll track 'em down again for ya. Sorry


    Thanks for the info on the 328 quarter glass... I had no idea! Now, what to do about the REAR glass?


    My muffler system, as it's set up right now, does NOT have a CAT on board. I probably should as I'm due for emmissions next month In any case, you sound like you're going to set you car up nearly identical to mine... Although, I wouldn't bother with chrome tips for the exhaust. The Ferrari Muffler comes with tips that are brushed aluminum and look VERY good.

    Currently, my K&N sits right below the deck lid hoving right above the spot the old 2.8L air-can sat. I have plans on moving the element directly behind the driver's side door scoop for ram air/cold air efficiency. Have yet to do that, but I think it would help. Besides, when the turbo goes in, the space occupied by the element now, will be all turbo! Gotta fix that now, BEFORE the torubo goes in!!!

    My engine is the 1991 TDC, so yes, the TB is attached. I will be adding an extention to that TB for the Turbo addition. It will also house 2 additional injectors.

    That's one thing I forgot to mention... the 8.5 plg wires. That's a good way to go as power travels on the surface of the cable. Splitfires are great plugs... If they weren't so hard to get to, I might change them over

    I got the low temp T-stat from my buddy at a local auto parts store. I'm not really sure what make it is but I remember that it had two versions... aluminum or chrome. I went with the chrome because it had a longer life cycle. I'll ask Tony when I see him next. I'll be there int he next couple of days.

    The 91 doesn't have the same kind of MAF as the newer model 3.4L DOHCs so modifiying it can be done yourself. I'll copy the instructions to you if you like. I think it can be done on the later models too. Yes, I did mine. As for the tulip valves, I don't know. To what are you refering as a "throttle plate"? If you are taking about the butterfly valve, yes there is a new plate there.

    GM detuned it huh... figures. Just like my Lotus! Stinkers!

    I hear what you're saying about the tranny but the Getrag 284 is supposed to handle more than 375 HP and 350 ft lbs. of torque. According to Archie, the 282 will handle 400 HP+ with no issues and the 284 is stronger than the 282 so I should be fine. Even with the added 7 lbs of boost. I've gotten used to the HUGE HP v. not-so-huge tranny dilema... The tranny is the weak spot on a Lotus too. As I mentioned, the factory detuned them (turbo restriction) considerably to save the tranny. Still, it's a jumper fix and BAM... full boost! Like my Lotus needs to go faster!

    Anyway, you're right... Why not do it the way you like? Save a little here and there and buy the parts as you go. It's not like this porject is ever going to end anyway. Even after it's on the raod!

    We should definetely talk via e-mail or IM. We're taking up alot of space here

    DKOV -

  7. #7
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    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    I too would recommned checking out DKOV's dash guy: If I remember correctly from the thread spider interiors sells the kit for $1800... They're also located in Canada, so you MIGHT have a problem at the border. Shipping will most likely be higher as well.

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    Re: DKOV - Ferrari OEM Parts?

    Unique:

    Here's your chrome valve caps...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...235338&r=0&t=0

    Happy Hunting! and NO, I've nothing to do with them... I just found them.

    DKOV -

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