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Thread: testarossa kits

  1. #1
    Senior Member beerman's Avatar
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    testarossa kits

    Been several years since i have been to the forum, going try to build my testarossa kit this winter. Who is still on the forum that still is building a testarossa, i forgot all the measurments for the stretch and other short-cuts to making the roof-line look good. Would like to trade build information.

  2. #2
    Senior Member beerman's Avatar
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    Re: testarossa kits

    There ??? was someone that built a red konig version of the testarossa several years ago , i believe he lives in Canada. He use to vist the forum alot, can't rememder his name. He had a lot of build pics for his car. Anybody remember him.

  3. #3

    Re: testarossa kits

    http://www.madmechanics.com/the-mall...based-kitbody/

    try this link, his forum name is NSX and he's Canadian...

    Joe

  4. #4

    Re: testarossa kits

    I'm building a Testarossa kit (though I'd actually prefer to sell it at this point). Anyway, I'd be glad to share what I know.

    My particular kit needed a 7 inch stretch. However, I have heard of Testarossa kits that required both a stretch, and a 1.5 inch DROP at the frame rails. I've also heard some kits needing a 7.5, maybe 7.25 stretch...

    I sourced my taillights from a 1987-1988 Nissan Sentra. Got the pair for $50 on Ebay. I've heard you can also buy new from Nissan for $150. When mounted upside down, they look almost identical to OEM, and are covered by a rear grill anyway.
    Got my front signals from Dave Terrill, though many on here have disputed his credibility as of late.
    Front headlights can be mocked up from any 60's-70's car with round headlights. My dad has a 66 impala - looks like a perfect donor, but I can't cut his car up =) I actually sourced mine from a Ford Ranchero, though the surrounds were cast iron, so the welds will be a challenge. Whatever you get, don't forget wiring pigtails and all the adjuster parts.

    I've not heard of a roof cut personally, but have heard of people cutting to allow for real quarter windows. Most people choose to just use plexiglass, painting the inside of the glass black to look like tinted glass. I've heard that late 80's/early 90's Cadillac quarter glass fits perfectly, though I can't recall which model anymore.

    I sourced my 3rd brake light from a 93 Cadillac Sedan Deville, IIRC. Haven't got far enough to mount it yet though.

  5. #5
    Senior Member cowans's Avatar
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    Re: testarossa kits

    Quote Originally Posted by beerman
    There ??? was someone that built a red konig version of the testarossa several years ago , i believe he lives in Canada. He use to vist the forum alot, can't rememder his name. He had a lot of build pics for his car. Anybody remember him.
    Hmmm! possibly me..! Canadian..... Red Koenig..... used to frequent this site! Or.. possibly Dale from PEI, although he hasn't painted his yet
    how can I help?
    best,
    Sandy


  6. #6
    Senior Member beerman's Avatar
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    Re: testarossa kits

    yep ,cowans your the winner . If i remember you have a CK3 kit, I was told that my kit was a splash of a CK3 kit, They all seem the same to me. i need the stretch information if possible. Thanks to the others for your help. Did you have to do the drop/angle stretch or the straight. Some people say you can use both.I even heard of people cutting the rear roof pillars down, to angle the roof back, sort of like a chop top.Pictures speak a thousand words, i usually put most things together by looking a the pictures.Do you have a cd or can you put one together for me of your build pictures,and any information that came with your kit from CK3 the ones you think i could use the most. I wanna change my basic testarossa kit, use a little of the Koneig version and the 512M hamann.I welcome all that have information to share.I also sent you a PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member beerman's Avatar
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    Re: testarossa kits

    Thanks, RHK At what stage is your car. Do you have any of the stetch pictures. I am trying to gather all the information i can before the big day of cutting the frame.I have the old I.F.G video that they use to sell with there kits, its so old you can barely see the pictues in some places, it gives you the basic measurements for there kit. I don't really know what kit company mine was splashed from, i was told CK3 ,then i was told it was Creative Coach,then it was from Creative Cars. Probably a little from each.Thanks again

  8. #8

    Re: testarossa kits

    My car is pretty near to the bodywork stage - mainly just fabricating headlight buckets and modifying the fuel filler hose; some of the door seams need a little work, since they are misaligned, seemingly from the molds.
    I don't have any pics of the stretch, but it's really pretty straightforward. Measure 15 times, cut once, tack some steel in, measure another 15 times, and weld her up.
    Check out lambolounge or lambobuilder.com. Lots of pics on there, including some stretches. They're all basically the same principle, just differ in length.
    The way I'd suggest going about it is using 6-8 screw type jacks (hydraulic jacks can leak, giving you trouble). Level the car from rockers forward, slightly raised, with jacks at the front corners, and another pair just forward of the cut. Cut the car 4-6 inches behind rear window, straight up and down. Lift and level the rear portion, making sure there's 7 inches between the cuts. You also want to measure across the car at an angle - from the corner at the driver's side where the rear window meets the upper frame rail, across to the passenger's side shock tower. That measurement should match the span from the opposite side.
    If you're careful and take your time, measure several times, tack here and there, then measure again, you'll be fine. It's pretty intimidating, but is also pretty straightforward.

    The upper frame can be replaced with 2 inch square steel pipe. The lower half is just shy of 2 x 4 pipe. On my lower rails, I cut one side off the same 2 inch square pipe I'd used for the top, making it U-shaped if you looked at the cross section. I welded that to a full sized 2 inch square tube, making it like an 8 on the cross section. That got me near enough that it worked well and fit well enough to weld. I made my steel such that the tube fit inside the existing frame rails, so I didn't have to butt weld anything, just welded the Fiero sheet to my new steel.

    Of course, there's a dozen ways to do it. I recently saw an article where they mocked up a wooden jig that fit the engine cradle, then stretched the jig to modify the cradle. With the cradle stretched first, then used as a base to keep the rear section in line to stretch the rest of the car.

    One thing I suggest is to remove the engine/trans/axles first. Not essential, but will probably help you move the rear half around easier.
    Also, the frame rails taper in toward the center of the car from front to rear! They are not straight; just something to keep in mind!

  9. #9
    Moderator FunnyWheels's Avatar
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    Re: testarossa kits

    Beerman, welcome back.

    Can you email me a few photos of your car so I can post them for you?

    Jerry Dorr and Bondo Bob are also building TR replicas. I have some photos of those if they will help you.

    newmdav@aceweb.com

    Regards,

    Dave
    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

  10. #10
    Senior Member beerman's Avatar
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    Re: testarossa kits

    Funnywheels, thanks for the offer on the pictures, i don't really have any now, kit is in storage, and the fiero has some of the body panels on it.


    i spoke to Jerry Dorr several years ago, about his car. Did'nt he get another kit other than the chassis/body he had. That how long i ve been away from the forum. I kinda lost intrest in cars, due to job, and trying to build a house. Never did get to build the house either, now back to the kit again. What about Bondo Bobs car, i remember him have your old mirage kit and painting it white, he now has a testarossa. I would like to see some pics please.
    Thanks again for the welcome back.

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