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Thread: Countach build

  1. #271
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    800
    Zdaxxy, wiring gauge and capacity will not change, but wiring technique is constantly evolving. When this chart talks about generators and ammeters, it make me think that it is at least 60 years old. All of the more current stuff, like relay systems and power locks and windows, is included in the Painless material. It is also all color coded to GM, which is the industry default for custom auto wiring. If you haven't already, you might want to code your harness this way. It makes it much easier to translate later. It is even easier when you have memorized most of the 900 numbers and colors, but that took 30 years.

  2. #272
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    167
    I have not started yet except with the charts to design on paper first. Once I am happy with the paper layout then I will start running the wires. The only thing in place currently is the header blocks off of the mounted lights that are awaiting a hookup to the main harness.

  3. #273
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Land O' Lakes, Fl
    Posts
    1,424
    A suggestion if I may,

    When we made the wire harnesses for the cop cars, we took a string and ran it as if it were the wire to measure out the lengths we needed. After taking down the measurements we laid out a peg board in the shape of an E. The top of the E was the front of the car for lights, sirens and the fuse block we put in. The middle of the E was for the center console and the bottom of the E was the rear of the car. Laying out the wires in the measurements we needed on the pg board and looming it all when done allowed us to produce a full wire harness for the cars in and then just run it through the car.

    Now I know that you will need more break offs than the front middle and rear, but you could make these leads as needed as not all our equipment only came out in the front middle or rear either. We had to have wires all throughout the harness to accommodate side lights or spot lights or headliner lights. We just had to determine and mark where we were going through the firewall at and then put in our leads where we needed them. Again, this was all mapped out using a string and then we simply ran the wires to or a little over that length as needed. Usually a bit longer is better to enable you to cut stuff back and not make the wire too short to work with.

    There are companies that will make the harness for you with all the correct measurements and wire gauges but they are not always the cheapest.

    So take this as only a suggestion but I feel like your working with less in your way than we did to make a wire harness which may make the process much easier on you.

    Anyhow, hope this is helpful information to you. Good luck with your build.
    It's a never ending battle of making your cars better and also trying to be better yourself. - Dale Earnhardt Sr

  4. #274
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    167
    Managed to finish the last bits of welding under the car this weekend. There were a few odds n ends that needed attention.
    So now the underside is ready to close up with a solid sheet.
    Then I can start on the inside with the foam and sound deadening sheets. Hopefully I will be able to get that started this weekend!

    All the exterior lights are in place with their connectors. Once I start on the inside I will start adding to that list as I go.

  5. #275
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    167
    This is the jig I came up with to create my temporary lenses.



    This is one of the finished lenses

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