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Thread: 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO scratch build

  1. #101
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    How much room would you have on the inside of the car between the door and the passenger? If there is a decent amount of space, you could keep the clean look but instead of building into the door you could build onto it... but to be honest, I like the way your idea is going as is. Just thought I would share an alternative you probably already considered. lol
    It's a never ending battle of making your cars better and also trying to be better yourself. - Dale Earnhardt Sr

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by G35Mike View Post
    How much room would you have on the inside of the car between the door and the passenger? If there is a decent amount of space, you could keep the clean look but instead of building into the door you could build onto it... but to be honest, I like the way your idea is going as is. Just thought I would share an alternative you probably already considered. lol
    Another great question. There's not much space at all. In fact, the upper bolster on the seat lightly contacts the upper part of the inner door frame.



    This is why I didn't seriously consider anything protruding into the passenger compartment on the door card. The seats are positioned outboards this way because the chassis backbone (it's more than a hump) is 18" wide due to the C5 Corvette transaxle setup.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  3. #103
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    Ah ha, yes, going into the door makes much more sense given the spacing. I really like the clean look but being a passenger without some sort of arm rest would be oddly uncomfortable. Your approach is certainly the better option.

    Keep the updates coming. It's great to see this project progressing and your handy work is just impressive to witness.
    It's a never ending battle of making your cars better and also trying to be better yourself. - Dale Earnhardt Sr

  4. #104
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    Post Passenger door – door card construction

    Now that I decided to use the design for the door card with an interior pocket due to passenger comfort, it was time to start making it. So, I transcribed the template onto AL 3003 - .050 and cut the door card piece out.



    There’s a decent amount of curve on the inner door frame where the door card mounts due to the tilt in the window frame. Using a combination of go-kart slick and regular anvils in the English wheel, I shaped the door card for the curve.



    The door pocket was then completed in Al .040 from the cardboard templates.



    Next up is adding the details onto the door card.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  5. #105
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    Post Passenger door – door locks

    It occurred to me that I’d forgotten to make provision for a door lock in my door card design. Not that surprising as the original GTO didn’t have door locks given it’s racing heritage. But in this day and age, it seems only prudent to have door locks on a street driven coupe. The bear claw latches I used have an “L” shaped metal bar that slides up about ¾” to lock and down to un-lock. On most cars with manual door locks, the door lock actuator is located somewhere on the door card.

    I thought about various ways to do this but none felt right. Then I thought about “hiding” the door lock actuator in the door pocket. I first started mocking this up using a bicycle brake cable and was going to fabricate a lever to push/pull the cable. This showed promise but I wasn’t convinced the cable would be stiff enough for the push operation.

    It turns out that later that day I needed to mow the grass around my house. While operating the mower, it occurred to me that it’s throttle did both a push and pull operation. So I went to my local saw and mower shop to see what I could find. For $7.50 each, I was able to buy mower throttles that included the lever and plenty of cable made with solid wire so it should be stiff enough to push for the unlock.



    I made up a bracket so that the lever tip would be accessible from inside the door pocket and thus out of sight. The flexible cable runs back to the door latch to pull and push on the door lock bar. Sometimes a great solution is simple and not the most intuitive

    On the door card, I used a bead roller to emboss the diagonal pattern on the surface. I plan to leave this as polished aluminum and didn’t want it to just be plain. I hemmed the edge around the door pocket opening so it wouldn’t have a sharp edge. Turns out hemming an inside edge requires quite a bit of stretch to turn it over, so not an easy task. It’s good that I did a practice run on a piece of scrap to figure out a good technique that would minimize hammer marks.



    The door card will be fastened with stainless button head screws and I decided to space them every 3 inches. This is way more screws than necessary but adds more eye candy to the door. I checked my stock of rivet-nuts and don’t have near as many as needed. Oh well, time to order more.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

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