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Thread: 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO scratch build

  1. #101
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    How much room would you have on the inside of the car between the door and the passenger? If there is a decent amount of space, you could keep the clean look but instead of building into the door you could build onto it... but to be honest, I like the way your idea is going as is. Just thought I would share an alternative you probably already considered. lol
    It's a never ending battle of making your cars better and also trying to be better yourself. - Dale Earnhardt Sr

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by G35Mike View Post
    How much room would you have on the inside of the car between the door and the passenger? If there is a decent amount of space, you could keep the clean look but instead of building into the door you could build onto it... but to be honest, I like the way your idea is going as is. Just thought I would share an alternative you probably already considered. lol
    Another great question. There's not much space at all. In fact, the upper bolster on the seat lightly contacts the upper part of the inner door frame.



    This is why I didn't seriously consider anything protruding into the passenger compartment on the door card. The seats are positioned outboards this way because the chassis backbone (it's more than a hump) is 18" wide due to the C5 Corvette transaxle setup.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  3. #103
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    Ah ha, yes, going into the door makes much more sense given the spacing. I really like the clean look but being a passenger without some sort of arm rest would be oddly uncomfortable. Your approach is certainly the better option.

    Keep the updates coming. It's great to see this project progressing and your handy work is just impressive to witness.
    It's a never ending battle of making your cars better and also trying to be better yourself. - Dale Earnhardt Sr

  4. #104
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    Post Passenger door Ė door card construction

    Now that I decided to use the design for the door card with an interior pocket due to passenger comfort, it was time to start making it. So, I transcribed the template onto AL 3003 - .050 and cut the door card piece out.



    Thereís a decent amount of curve on the inner door frame where the door card mounts due to the tilt in the window frame. Using a combination of go-kart slick and regular anvils in the English wheel, I shaped the door card for the curve.



    The door pocket was then completed in Al .040 from the cardboard templates.



    Next up is adding the details onto the door card.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  5. #105
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    Post Passenger door Ė door locks

    It occurred to me that Iíd forgotten to make provision for a door lock in my door card design. Not that surprising as the original GTO didnít have door locks given itís racing heritage. But in this day and age, it seems only prudent to have door locks on a street driven coupe. The bear claw latches I used have an ďLĒ shaped metal bar that slides up about ĺĒ to lock and down to un-lock. On most cars with manual door locks, the door lock actuator is located somewhere on the door card.

    I thought about various ways to do this but none felt right. Then I thought about ďhidingĒ the door lock actuator in the door pocket. I first started mocking this up using a bicycle brake cable and was going to fabricate a lever to push/pull the cable. This showed promise but I wasnít convinced the cable would be stiff enough for the push operation.

    It turns out that later that day I needed to mow the grass around my house. While operating the mower, it occurred to me that itís throttle did both a push and pull operation. So I went to my local saw and mower shop to see what I could find. For $7.50 each, I was able to buy mower throttles that included the lever and plenty of cable made with solid wire so it should be stiff enough to push for the unlock.



    I made up a bracket so that the lever tip would be accessible from inside the door pocket and thus out of sight. The flexible cable runs back to the door latch to pull and push on the door lock bar. Sometimes a great solution is simple and not the most intuitive

    On the door card, I used a bead roller to emboss the diagonal pattern on the surface. I plan to leave this as polished aluminum and didnít want it to just be plain. I hemmed the edge around the door pocket opening so it wouldnít have a sharp edge. Turns out hemming an inside edge requires quite a bit of stretch to turn it over, so not an easy task. Itís good that I did a practice run on a piece of scrap to figure out a good technique that would minimize hammer marks.



    The door card will be fastened with stainless button head screws and I decided to space them every 3 inches. This is way more screws than necessary but adds more eye candy to the door. I checked my stock of rivet-nuts and donít have near as many as needed. Oh well, time to order more.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  6. #106
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    Post Drivers door Ė door card

    Making the driverís door card was pretty much a repeat of the passenger side. I thought some step by step pics on hemming the door pocket opening edge might be of interest. The first step was cutting out an opening that is about ľĒ smaller than the final opening. I did this with an electric jigsaw.



    Next was turning a 90 degree flange around the opening. Doing this on an inside opening is much harder than outside edge because you canít use a bead roller. To prepare for making the flange, I clamped a dolly with a long square edge into my bench vice and used a plastic forming hammer. I chose the forming hammer for itís round faces that could make the flange in the curved parts of the opening. I chose the plastic hammer as it would be less likely to leave hammer marks as a metal faced hammer could. I slowly hammered around the opening forming the flange using the sharpie marks as a guide.





    Thereís quite a bit of stretch required on the curved sections. I used the hammer small end for the curved areas and large end for the straights. The Al 3003 was soft enough that annealing wasnít required.



    Next I flipped the door card over and worked from the backside. While sitting, and balancing the dolly with the largest flat portion up on my knee, I carefully hammered the flange over using the large end of the forming hammer. Itís important to keep the dolly flat on the outer surface to avoid marking the panel. I set the hem close to flat with the forming hammer. The final set was done face up on a power hammer using a rubber faced upper die and an almost flat lower die. I used a low power setting to avoid warping or marking the door card surface. The hem is now completely flat after the power hammer work.



    The door pocket opening now has a smooth edge free of any burrs or potential snags.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  7. #107
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    Post Drivers door Ė door card finished

    Making more progress on driverís door. I want to make sure the windows donít have air whistling in around them. So, I spent some time on the internet looking for seals that would also finish off the openings. I got lucky and found some beltline trim seals for both the inside and outside that dress up and finish off where the window meets the door frame. I installed the inside beltline trim to the inner door frame using some small socket head screws.



    Iím down to the final preparation prior to making and installing the door skins. I decided it was time to metal finish the inner door frame. Iíve decided to keep the inner frame and door cards in polished aluminum so it was time to remove all the scratches. The driverís door inner frame was my first ever attempt at building door so there was lots of metal finishing to do

    After about a day of sanding I had everything evened up, all the scratches out and it wet sanded down to 600 grit. It looked much better. Here it is after assembly with the new door card in place.

    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  8. #108
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    Impressive! That came out amazingly well. Looks very OEM quality finished. It simply has that look. Well done. Very well done.
    It's a never ending battle of making your cars better and also trying to be better yourself. - Dale Earnhardt Sr

  9. #109
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    Yes, You're are right there.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by G35Mike View Post
    Impressive! That came out amazingly well. Looks very OEM quality finished. It simply has that look. Well done. Very well done.
    Quote Originally Posted by townerkatherin View Post
    Yes, You're are right there.
    Thanks for following and the praise. I am very happy with how it came out. Next up is the door skin. I'll post pics with progress.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

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