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Thread: 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO scratch build

  1. #71
    Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoseOSI View Post
    Hi Joel.
    I find a easy way is to fit the skin to the car first with hinges, then weld everything else in place. Basically a skeleton tube frame first, then just skin everything.
    Just make sure every now & then to check that everything still lines up.

    Sorry about the big pic, could not load a new smaller one.
    Cheers Jose'
    Jose' : Can you elaborate more on your technique? Does it work with all types of hinges?

    With my current approach, I'll be mounting the door skin last. Basic sequence being: mount hinges, fab steel frame connecting hinges to latch and holding window frame, fab inner door frame (part that seals door and skin attaches to), and then attaching the skin. It looks like the inner door frame will need to be made from 4 pieces (front, back, top, bottom) and welded together.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  2. #72
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    Basically the same way,
    I fit the skin with a small frame around its edge, mount that to the hinges, as in left pic.(old mini hinges worked perfectly for this one)
    That way I know everything lines up, & the door doesnt catch when swinging open.
    Retrofit the latch to make sure it doesnt catch, then weld the supporting inner frame with everything in place, & checking clearance wile sitting in the car, theres not a lot of space in the Maserati.
    That way I can see straight away if i'm having any clearance problems as i'm going along.
    Then just skin the inner frame.
    So its the same way you do it, I just start with skin first.

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    Cheers Jose'

  3. #73
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    Just for interest. When you talk about how heavy the fiberglass is. I stuck the completed door on a scale the other day, came in at just under 1kg including latch, & hinges, without glass.

  4. #74
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    Post Driver door update

    Given the prompting for an update, hereís where Iím at with scratch building the drivers door.

    I first built a tube frame to provide strength while connecting the hinges to the door latch. The original tube frame design was done assuming Iíd use the fiberglass door skins. I had sourced door hinges from a 1980s era Volvo. I chose these because they are compact, strong, had built in springs to hold door open and a door stop to keep door from opening too far. For latches, Iím using aftermarket ďbear clawĒ latches.

    I later decided to go a different direction for the door skin material as the fiberglass skins were quite heavy and Iíd still need to build out the inner door parts to seal the door from water/wind. I decided to make the inner door frame and outer skin all from .063 thick 3003 aluminum. This decision was based on logic, not experience, and now Iím finding itís quite time consuming to build a door from scratch, especially with no prior door building experience.

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    I was able to make the door frame front inner piece that snakes around the hinges from one piece of aluminum sheet and on the first try. Albeit, I did go through several cardboard templates in order to figure out where to bend, cut, and weld this sheet into a crooked Z shape. I must have hung and removed the door frame at least 20 times while bending, shaping, cutting, and welding this one piece up.

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    Next was the frame rear inner piece. First complication is the door seal has a slight curved shape to it so I couldnít just put the first bend in it on a sheet metal break. Not to worry, this gave me the perfect excuse to learn how to use the flanging dies on my air power hammer. Hey, what do you know, they actually work and the extra metal was shrunk as the curved 90 degree bend was put in.

    More update to come Ö
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  5. #75
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    Post Driver door update (cont.)

    Still working on the rear inner door frame, the next challenge was making this now flanged piece curve in the other direction. Some pie cuts and TIG welds later, it now does and fits well to the door opening. I then cut out the area where the latch pin/stud passes through the door frame and into the latch. Drill four holes so this piece is held in place by the screws holding the latch and I think Iíve got a handle on this piece.

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    Truth be told, these two nice looking pieces are rejects destined for the garbage bin. While the rear door frame looks like it should be easier than the front, it isnít because I didnít allow enough space to include a flange for mounting the outer door skin when I designed the door frame structural tubes. For the one on the left, I even tried to wrap it around the frame tube to make more space. It just wasnít going to work.

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    I ended up cutting off the vertical frame tube and welding a new one in place to create more space between it and the door jamb. Sounds easy enough right, well even with great care the weld shrinkage ended up pulling the window frame so it now was 1/8Ē outside the window opening at the upper rear corner. GrrrÖ.

    Well after a bunch of heat shrinking and weld beads on the inside of the window frame mount, I was able to pull the upper rear corner back into the body work. Well there went another several hours of my scare garage time to recover from an issue.

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    So now Iím on my 3rd attempt at the rear inner frame skin. Iíve got the curved flanging on air power hammer down so that doesnít take much time now. I alter my design such that the latch protrudes through the inner skin to make room for the outer door skin mounting flange. No problem, I can fabricate a little box cover to go over the latch and make everything look good. Hey itís looking good now as the door latches nice, the rear inner skin mates up to the seal nice so I shouldnít get wind whistle and door jamb clearance looks good.

    I still need to turn the outer flange but this needs to be done with precision so the outer door skin will be flush with the surrounding fender. I decide to make the inner frame bottom piece prior to turning the flange so Iíll know how the flanges will mate up at the bottom rear door corner.

    And thatís where Iím currently at. Iíve done a couple of short test pieces for the inner bottom, but havenít done the full bottom piece yet.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  6. #76
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    Well I have to say, I thought I respected kit car builders before your last post... You have certainly moved that respect up a notch to be sure.

    It looks and sounds rough, but if your anything like me, you wont, cant, stop till you get it done and done right.

    So even though I may not post all the time, know I am reading, following along, and rooting you on my friend. Keep at it, because all the headaches are paying off.

    The workmanship is just impressive.

  7. #77
    wow, great work

  8. #78
    Senior Member Don's Avatar
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    It has been a long time since we have had updates. Any progress on this outstanding project?

    Cheers
    Don
    308 Ferrari replica
    Prova Countach 5000QV

  9. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don View Post
    It has been a long time since we have had updates. Any progress on this outstanding project?

    Cheers
    Don
    Yes, I have made some progress. I have in fact completed the inner door frame for the drivers door. Quite the journey, but I've learned a lot. I'll take some pictures and get them posted.
    Joel Heinke
    (Classic Roadsters Cobra, Ferrari 250GTO under construction)

  10. #80
    Senior Member RCR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C5GTO View Post
    Yes, I have made some progress. I have in fact completed the inner door frame for the drivers door. Quite the journey, but I've learned a lot. I'll take some pictures and get them posted.
    Great news. Thanx Joel.

    Bob
    Bob custom '84 Fiero SE --->>> custom F408
    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/cu...ilepic37_1.gif

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