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Thread: Modern-day Miura

  1. #111
    Senior Member IKAROS's Avatar
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    You have my undivided attention...
    Well done sir.

  2. #112
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IKAROS View Post
    You have my undivided attention...
    Well done sir.
    Thanks IKAROS! I'm just trying to keep the quality up to that of your work
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be scared of being bold!

  3. #113
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Post Chassis Front Extension Fabrication (part 2)

    The next order of business was to add in a cross brace to provide structural support for the lower radiator mount. Vertical connectors between the bottom and middle tubes were also added next to the cross brace.



    I then folded up a piece of Al 5052 .063 for the bottom radiator mount.



    Next was designing the structural support for the battery box. I started this by adding a diagonal brace to keep the front framework from moving side to side. The side of the battery box was framed from there.



    All this framework construction was going smoothly but then I started to get nervous about if it would be strong enough. After all, it needs to support a radiator full of coolant, a lead filled battery, one piece tilt front end, bumper (even if it’s mostly cosmetic) and lights. I hadn’t yet welded the bottom to middle tube connectors to the middle tubes. I had used Al 6063 ¾” by 1 ½” tubes so far. I checked my metal supplier and they stocked Al 6061 T6 in 1” by 1 ½”. While only ¼” thicker, the combination of size and alloy makes these tubes stronger. I figured better stronger than not so I bought some more aluminum stock and remade the middle tubes.





    I decided to make the battery box bottom from Al 5052 .063. Some small beads were rolled into the sheet to make the bottom stiffer before folding.



    Folding up the battery box sides turned out to be quite a chore. I don’t have a box/pan or finger break. I have a Magnabend break which uses electro magnets to hold the bending dies in place. It usually does fine on Al .063 when I can use a 48” bending die because there’s lots of ferrous metal for the magnets to hold. Given the smaller size of the battery box, only smaller bending dies could be used and the magnets just couldn’t hold them enough to bend the metal. So I used a combination of bead roller with tipping die, air power hammer with flanging dies and rubber hammer and handheld dolly to fold up the battery box. It turned out fine but took a lot more time than if a good old manual finger break were used.



    More to come.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be scared of being bold!

  4. #114
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    This is looking amazing. Incredible work

  5. #115
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodyman View Post
    This is looking amazing. Incredible work
    Thanks bodyman.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be scared of being bold!

  6. #116
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Post Chassis Front Extension Fabrication (part 3)

    My objective for the front chassis extension at this point is to get the remaining tubes in place and fabricate the radiator upper mount. The two upper tubes should add a lot of strength to the framework given their angled orientation.



    A quick check with the digital level shows the frame assembly is still dead level after the two upper tubes were tacked in place.



    Next was to figure out the radiator upper mount. While doing this, I decided it was time to trial fit the A/C radiator so I could factor it into the mounts. I got a scare as the A/C hose fittings would not clear the frame tubes. My first thought was to put some notches in the tubes for clearance. But after sleeping on it, a simpler solution came to mind. Instead of having the radiators centered up in the chassis, if I offset them 1 ½” to driver’s side then 90 degree A/C hose fittings would now clear the frame tubes.





    A horizontal cross tube is being used for the radiator upper mount. Riv-nuts are used in this tube to accept fasteners for the sheet metal mount (actual mount not pictured).



    I also added some triangulation tubes for strengthening into the framework. With that, the framework is complete except the very front. I need to figure out and design the hinges for the front clip prior to completing that area. So I spent a half day crawling around on the floor doing body contortions while welding up all the joints.

    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be scared of being bold!

  7. #117
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Post Chassis Front Extension Fabrication (part 3)

    Radiator and battery now properly sit in place without wood blocks or straps to support them.





    And there’s still clearance for spare tire storage.





    From the side, things look good as well. I might need to remount the upper radiator hose fitting at an angle if the front clip bodywork runs too close. Oh well, there’s always some loose ends to follow up on later.





    All in all, I think the front chassis framework came out good. It feels strong and does not give when I press on it vertically or shake it side to side.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be scared of being bold!

  8. #118
    Senior Member Don's Avatar
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    Looks great Joel. Do you think the spare tire will get in the way of the hood vents and air flow through the rad?

    Enjoying the updates.
    Don
    308 Ferrari replica
    Prova Countach 5000QV

  9. #119
    why not flip the radiator upside down so that the coolant tubes would face the ground. If so would the bottom tube be too low and can you reweld it so it would point to the side. Or will the hole thing produce air lock on top of the top of the radiator.

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by chimaera View Post
    Or will the hole thing produce air lock on top of the top of the radiator.
    Bingo! There would be no way to fill or bleed the radiator if it were mounted upside down.

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