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Thread: Modern-day Miura

  1. #191
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCR View Post
    Beautiful work, Joel. Your replication of the "ol' school" methods are amazing.

    Thanx for the updates.

    Bob
    Quote Originally Posted by 275NART View Post
    Super job as always!
    Bob and 275NART: thanks for following!
    Joel Heinke
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  2. #192
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Post Front Clip Substructure (cont.)

    Iím working on the area where the front clip intersects with the windshield. My high level plan is to use a hem joint to attach the hood skin to the substructure.





    As you can see, the windshield wipers are hidden under the front clip when they park. This differs from original Miura in that it had exposed wipers mounted to an exposed cowl section. The cardboard taped to the windshield represents the gap I think will be needed for the windshield wipers to clear the front clip when in operation. I mocked this up with some buck stations for the door skins so I could visualize what the rear edge of front clip might look like if I built out the substructure up to that piece of cardboard and then hemmed the front clip skin over it.

    I extended the framework with ĺĒ square tube as close to the windshield as possible and provide clearance for windshield wipers to sweep.



    At least I thought my design would provide the needed clearance. Prior to welding it in place, I decided to do a clearance test.



    Passenger side is good with about 3/16Ē clearance with wiper at windshield edge. Drivers side didnít pass though as it contacted the new framework prior to completing its sweep.



    Ah, windshield wiper pivot points are not quite symmetrical in location. I redesigned the framework on drivers side and it now has needed clearance.





    Next step is to further extend substructure toward windshield with aluminum sheet to form shape for rear edge of front clip.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

  3. #193
    Senior Member TRcrazy's Avatar
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    Looking good Joel, to make the curved rear of the hood, do you plan to make an inner hood skin? Or a lightened inner skin to create an edge to wrap over the outer skin ? A wire edge could also work here too . I like the aluminum framework youíre creating , strong and light weight go together . On Kirkham Cobras website, their method of wrapping the alloy outer skin over an inner structure or framework was helpful in planning my build. Its a nod back to the the old European way of race car chassis building, a superleggera framework. Keep it up ! -Vince
    Last edited by TRcrazy; 01-03-2020 at 08:31 AM.
    Remember, there is always next year.

  4. #194
    Senior Member C5GTO's Avatar
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    Yince: yes, I plan to add aluminum sheet to the framework in a superleggera manner such that the hood skin can be hemmed/clamped over it. I'll post pictures once I get back to working on the project. Had to take a few days off to buy my wife a new car. Priorities you know
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

  5. #195
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    It's looking good Joel. Do you plan on leaving all of that structure as part of the hood, or is some of it temporary while you form an inner and outer hood skin?

  6. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloozberry View Post
    It's looking good Joel. Do you plan on leaving all of that structure as part of the hood, or is some of it temporary while you form an inner and outer hood skin?
    Yes, the framework is all permanent. There will be very little inner skin. Given the size of the flip up front clip, I think a framework is needed for structural strength.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

  7. #197
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    Post Front Clip Substructure (cont.)

    Iím now extending the rear part of substructure with a flange made of .063Ē 5052 AL sheet to provide a flange to hem the hood skin over. The first step is to make cardboard templates to capture the sheet cut out shapes. I decided to construct this part of the flange from 3 pieces to be welded together.



    The mount side edge was folded over on a break, pieces welded together and holes are being drilled for fasteners. Rivnuts are used in the aluminum frame and button head screws then fasten the flange in place.







    The flange meets up nicely with the cardboard spacer taped to windshield. There should be plenty of space for the windshield wipers to sweep under the hood skin but I plan to verify it to make sure. Additional pieces will be welded onto the flange to extend it to where the front clip rear edge meets up with the doors. Iíll add these once the front clip substructure is fully built out along the front of door openings.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

  8. #198
    Senior Member Don's Avatar
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    As usual outstanding work Joel.

    One item I I am thinking about that I read from Bloozberry on his site was using metal to create the structure under the hood could potentially become an issue in the event of a crash where the metal structure comes through the windscreen in a bad one. In using metal to create a hood substructure on my first project, I had not thought about that at all until I read on his site so I am wondering if you plan to design in some "anti-intrusion" posts up near the cowl to stop the hood from coming in through the screen or maybe some crumple zone/notches?

    Again, excellent craftsmanship and keep it up.
    Don
    308 Ferrari replica
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  9. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don View Post
    As usual outstanding work Joel.

    One item I I am thinking about that I read from Bloozberry on his site was using metal to create the structure under the hood could potentially become an issue in the event of a crash where the metal structure comes through the windscreen in a bad one. In using metal to create a hood substructure on my first project, I had not thought about that at all until I read on his site so I am wondering if you plan to design in some "anti-intrusion" posts up near the cowl to stop the hood from coming in through the screen or maybe some crumple zone/notches?

    Again, excellent craftsmanship and keep it up.
    Don
    Don: thanks for your question. Until you asked it, my main consideration had been structural strength in the front clip framework and I hadn't thought about crash protection at all. After thinking about it for a bit, if I build the very front portion so it will "catch" on the underlying chassis frame, I don't think any of it could make it through the windshield into the cockpit as the front clip framework will be constrained from traveling towards cockpit. This is a 1 piece front clip that includes the front bumper, grill, and lower valance areas. When I build out the framework for front bumper supports, I'll keep this in mind.

    Again, thanks for the question as it brings additional considerations that I hadn't thought about.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

  10. #200
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    Post Door Design Challenges

    I decided to continue fabricating the front clip rear mounting flange toward the driver side door. In order to do this, it became apparent Iíd need to determine the exact location for the front edge of the door. One of my lessons learned from my prior GTO project is that doors are complicated and thus really hard. And specifically the pocket located in front of the door needs to be placed and sized appropriately or bad things happen to the front part of the door when opened all the way.

    The first step is door pocket lateral placement such that the door skin will have sufficient clearance to avoid contact with the rear edge of front fender when the door is fully open. The second step is to ensure the width and depth of the door pocket is sufficiently large enough that the front edge of the door skin wonít contact anything as it moves inward during door opening.

    I had estimated the position for rear edge of front fender while fabricating the front clip framework. I planned to run a vertical tube straight downward from the rear part of the framework. So I needed to do a lot of mockup to verify the door pocket placement. A piece of TIG filler rod was used to simulate the rear edge of front fender. Steel rulers were taped to buck stations to simulate the door skin.



    Sure enough, the door only opened about ĺ and the door skin was hitting the front fender. I had to move the door pocket forward by an inch to get the needed clearance.



    With the lateral position of the door pocket now established, the next issue became apparent. The upper front part of the door hits a framework tube during door opening. My original plan was to run a vertical tube down from the framework tube that now needs to be cut out. I had to establish where a vertical tube could be placed and still have adequate space in the door pocket.



    Re-work time. Time to break out the Sawsall and make some room in the door pocket.





    I first mocked up the vertical down tubes as straight tubes. I could minimize the forward shift on the vertical tube in the door pocket by curving it. I decided to curve the front one as well to make more room for the wheel house. A final door full open test. The door skin clears and no obstructions in the door pocket.

    I now have the door design past the first two challenge areas. Thereís still lots more door challenges to overcome.
    Joel Heinke
    Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

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