Quote Originally Posted by C5GTO View Post
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I started with partially threaded ½” stainless steel bolts. I used a lathe to drill holes into the center of the bolt head and down the shaft. The drilled hole was then threaded for 3/8”-24 threads using a hand tap. I then used a vertical mill to machine the bolt heads down to 1/8” thick so they would clear the rotor. The bolt shaft was cut off with a hack-saw and remaining shaft ground to final length on a grinding wheel. The picture above shows at various stages of machining where rearmost one is completed tee-nut with a 3/8" bolt in it. Like I said lots of machining and time to make each one and 8 tee-nuts were needed.




It's an interesting approach to the problem. I have two observations about it nevertheless:

1. How were you able to torque the caliper mounting bolts given that you only had a 1/8" gap to hold the tee-nut from spinning?

2. I also worry about the amount of torque you can place on the tee nuts before they fail. Having hollowed out a 1/2" stainless bolt with a 3/8" inner diameter hole would leave only 1/16" thickness where the shank meets the head of the tee nut. Since the 3/8" stainless bolt has a cross section of about .11 sq-in and is designed for about 22 lbft of torque, the 1/2" tee nut would have 0.2 sq-in of cross section minus 0.11 drilled out equals 0.09 sq-in cross section. That's about a 20% reduction in area over the 3/8" bolt, which means the caliper mounting bolt should really only be torqued to 20% less than its design load, or 17 to 18 lbft. As long as you believe that's enough to hold the caliper on, it should be alright. Much more than that and you risk pulling the head off the tee nut.

My 2 cents.