Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Suspension setting difficulty

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    186

    Suspension setting difficulty

    I am depending on a lot of advice here as I get into all the summer projects on the F40. One of those is suspension setup. Not having electronic suspension setup available in Mazatlan, I am struggling with the basics of this myself. The car has 88 suspension, and although the Internet is full of info, here is what I have run into: The right rear tire is wearing on the outside, indicating a camber issue. With my bubble level home made device, it is obvious the wheel has significant negative camber. Closer inspection also revealed a significant toe out. I struggled for a day to move to slightly positive camber, but my car does not have the cam bolts, and it took a ton of heavy prying and home made shims to get a slight positive result- the adjustment is pretty well all the way now on the strut. I then adjusted for toe IN by turning the tie rod end out a couple of turns. I took the car for a test drive, and found its high speed much less twitchy; a sign I was moving in the right direction. After putting my camber level back on the wheel after all of this, I was dismayed to find out I have negative camber again- back to where I was before all this started! And not much adjustment room left at the strut to knuckle connections. Is there any movement available at the TOP of the strut where the 3 bolts are? Or, any other suggestions? Thanks in advance, Steve

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    7
    Can you take a picture to the place where you have put the shims ? About the strut mount ( the three bolts on the top ) some cars have the adjustment right there , some times you have to make the holes bigger or won't let you move the strut , that's how you fix camber and caster on a BMW , some of then .
    About your camber coming back to negative .... , after you test drove the car , everything start working and set in place , that's going to happen every time , sometimes just a little bit , some others a lot !!!

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    186
    I don't have ability to post and download pictures. however, on the two bolts that attach the strut to the lower knuckle, the lower one is supposed to be a cam bolt;that depending on which side the cam is on, will move your camber settings. I don't have the cam bolt, just a normal grade 10 bolt.The slot on the strut allows you to slide the bolt and knuckle out or in depending on what you are trying to achieve. there is a stop for the cam to bump up against on the strut on the inner side .I am there now and still negative camber.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    402
    You may need to slot the other hole and adjust there too. You really need the cams to keep the alignment in place. You probably cannot tighten the bolts enough to make it hold without them.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    186
    Nice idea, but at the top bolt, the top of the knuckle is already up against the strut tube- no room to go IN, if that is my goal. Believe it or not, with the bolt on the bottom already as far IN as it can go, the top of the rim still needs to go IN about a half an inch in order to achieve Neutral camber, (using my bubble level) Or are you suggesting that using the bottom bolt as a pivot, I would try to make the top bolt go OUT? In all of this, I am assuming the bottom ball joint is the pivot point for the whole knuckle, and that any INWARDS movement at the top of the knuckle, would move me towards positive camber. The other wheel, is set up perfectly, and is not using the whole slot to get there. Confusing and frustrating!

  6. #6
    Senior Member TwilightZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1,200
    Check your wheel bearings. If they are worn it can give you camber issues.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    186
    The whole hub assembly and bearings was a new replacement about four months ago. Steve

  8. #8
    Senior Member dwheeler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Vacaville, CA
    Posts
    114
    Sounds like you might need to shim out the bottom instead.
    +1 on the bolt tightening. On my Cobra, it would slip the alignment if I hit the brakes too hard. Finally put a 4 foot pole on the wrench to get it tight enough.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    186
    Well, at the risk of sounding stupid, a last update on this ordeal! I found a cam bolt from some other vehicle, that is a bit smaller than stock Fiero. Playing with this and using my bubble level finally brought some light into all this. the knuckle is almost impossible to move within the strut without using the cam on the bolt. with the top bolt in place, the pivot geometry of the knuckle happens at the bottom slotted bolt; moving it OUT to get more positive camber I had to place the cam thin side in, put in a shim, then turn the cam bolt so the thick side is agaianst the shim. Lock down the top bolt, and then loosen the cam bolt, and turn it to the thin side again and put in another shim. by repeating this, and 3 shims later, I am at neutral camber. Far better than anything else I did. the mechanical advantage of the cam bolt is essential; very tough to move the knuckle out without it.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •