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Thread: bump steer by Held sucks

  1. #1
    kitcarnut
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    bump steer by Held sucks

    so ,no instruction, nothing fits! all I know, is trim off the knuckle bit. done.
    all treads are f.... maybe he used hand to bore it out.after all day of nothing now I have to take it machine shop to fix it.
    Heh it's only money.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Randolph's Avatar
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    I had to trim a little off the knuckles too. The main problem I had was with the toe link tubes. The ones that were sent orginally were powered coated black and I could not thread the bolts into them. I sent them back and Dave Held exchanged them for ones that were gold colored like the ones in the picture at the bottom of this page:

    http://www.heldmotorsports.com/assem...eerInstrux.htm

  3. #3
    Senior Member Randolph's Avatar
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    Instructions also available at the above web page

  4. #4
    Moderator FunnyWheels's Avatar
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    I really don't understand this note. I got all of my stuff and it went together as instructed.

    Dave
    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

  5. #5
    Moderator FunnyWheels's Avatar
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    Here you go!

    Hope this helps you.

    Dave

    Held
    MOTORSPORTS
    __________________________________________________ __________
    PHONE/ 321 868-1832
    750 N. Atlantic Ave #501
    Cocoa Beach, FL 32931
    www.heldmotorsports.com
    FIERO REAR BUMP STEER CONVERSION KIT
    INSTALLATION
    Parts list
    1 left control arm
    1 right control arm
    2 3/4 spherical rod ends
    2 3/4 jam nuts
    2 5/8 spherical rod ends
    2 5/8 right hand clevises
    2 5/8 right hand jam nuts
    2 5/8 left hand jam nuts
    2 toe link tubes
    1 left hand knuckle adapter bracket
    1 right hand knuckle adapter bracket
    8 urethane bushings
    4 bushing sleeves
    2 3/8 - 24 x 1 1/4" gr.8 hex bolts
    2 3/8 - 24 nylon lock nuts
    6 3/8 SAE hard flat washers
    4 1/2 - 20 x 2" gr.8 hex bolts
    6 1/2 SAE hard flat washers
    2 1/2 USS hard flat washers
    2 9/16 - 18 x 3 1/2" gr.8 hex bolts (special head)
    2 9/16 - 18 lock nuts
    2 9/16 SAE hard flat washers
    2 5/8 - 18 x 4 1/2" gr.8 hex bolts
    2 5/8 - 18 lock nuts
    4 5/8 SAE hard flat washers
    2 5/8 OD x 1/2 ID rod end spacer sleeves
    2 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID rod end spacer sleeves


    Warning!
    Suspension system work should always be carried out by qualified individuals. If you are not completely confident of your skill in this area, have someone who is do the installation or assist you with the installation. Held Motorsports accepts no responsibility for the consequences of improperly installed components. Your life may depend on your work, be careful.
    Installation:
    The factory rear control arms and tie rod assemblies should be removed and discarded. It may not be necessary to remove the knuckle assembly from the strut in order to perform the conversion but one may find it easier to work on the knuckle off the vehicle.
    Preparation of the knuckle.


    There are two minor modifications necessary on the knuckle.
    1). The steering stop tab under the steering arm must be removed. (The Fiero knuckle was originally a front wheel drive part)
    2). The steering arm must be drilled to accept a 5/8" bolt.
    Refer to the picture and using a hack saw or other suitable tool, remove the steering stop tab. You may wish to de-bur and paint the freshly exposed metal. The steering arm mod will be covered later.
    In order to install the 9/16 bolt through the knuckle in place of the original lower ball joint it will be necessary to remove the axle. With the lower control arm removed, loosen the axle nut and slip the axle out of the hub. Make sure the lower surface of the knuckle is clean and flat as it will mate with the knuckle adapter bracket. Slip the 9/16 bolt through the ball pin mount hole in the knuckle from the top side and engage the knuckle adapter bracket over the end of the bolt. Before installation of the washer and nut, be sure the round mount boss of the bracket aligns with the hole in the steering arm of the knuckle. There is potential for the rectangular block section of the bracket to hit the knuckle and cause misalignment of the steering arm hole. If there is interference, the knuckle must be ground or sanded to increase clearance in the area of interference so that the tapered hole in the steering arm aligns with the hole in the round boss of the bracket.


    With the bracket attached to the knuckle via the 9/16 bolt (not fully tightened at this time), the original ball pin pinch bolt can now be reinstalled. Note that there will be some interference between the pinch bolt and the 9/16 bolt. Lightly tap the pinch bolt into position with it's head toward the front of the vehicle and install the original locking nut 'snug' . Use the 5/8 hole in the round boss as a guide to drill the taper out of the factory steering arm. The arm can easily be drilled with a hand held electric drill. After drilling is complete, install a flat washer on the 5/8 bolt provided and install the bolt through the boss and steering arm from the bottom and secure with a second flat washer and lock nut at the top. Tighten (in this sequence) the 9/16 bolt to 40 ft/lbs. The pinch bolt to 25 ft/lbs. The 5/8 bolt to 140 ft/lbs.



    Control Arm preparation:

    Each control arm pivot comprises two urethane bushings and a steel sleeve. The bushings should be installed from each end of the housing so that one urethane flange faces forward and one faces the rear of the vehicle. With the bushings installed, the steel sleeves can be inserted into their centers so that the ends of the sleeves are flush with the surfaces of the bushing flanges.
    The 3/4 spherical rod end screws into the threaded opening at the end of the main tube of the control arm. This is the opposite end from the bushing housing. Before installation of the rod end, it must be sleeved down to 1/2" ID in order to properly fit the 1/2 " hardware supplied. Press the rod end spacer sleeve into the rod end using a bench vise or hydraulic press. Install the 3/4 jam-nut onto the stud of the rod end and screw the rod end into the control arm. When properly installed, the center of the rod end should be 12" from the center of the urethane bushing. Tighten the jam-nut to secure the adjustment, being sure the axis of the spherical bearing is parallel with the axis of the urethane bushing. DO NOT use a lever through the ball as a means of holding the adjustment while tightening the jam-nut, this could result in damage to the rod end housing.
    The control arm is now ready for installation into the chassis in place of the original arm. The new control arm should be oriented so that the main tube (1 1/4" diameter) of the control arm is toward the rear of the vehicle and the toe link mount tab is up. Attach the arm using the original hardware.

    Toe link preparation


    The toe link comprises 6 main components; a 5/8 left hand spherical rod end, a 5/8" OD x 1/2" ID rod end spacer sleeve, a 5/8 right hand clevis, a left and right hand threaded toe link tube and 5/8 left and right hand jam-nuts. Before installation of the rod end, it must be sleeved down to 1/2" ID in order to properly fit the 1/2 " hardware supplied. Press the rod end spacer sleeve into the rod end using a bench vise or hydraulic press.
    Install the jam nuts onto the rod end and clevis studs. Screw the clevis and rod end into the appropriate ends of the toe link tube and adjust them so that there is an equal amount of thread protruding from each end of the tube. Initially (for standard track width vehicles), there should be approximately 1/4" of thread protruding past the jam nut on each end to achieve close-to-correct toe settings.
    Install the clevis to the mounting tab on the leading tube of the control arm. Note that the mounting tab is slightly narrower than the slot in the clevis. The clevis should be installed with a 3/8 SAE washer on either side of the tab for a tight installation. With the washers in place, insert the 3/8 bolt with flat washer and lock nut.
    You are now ready to attach the control arm to the knuckle adapter bracket. If the knuckle was removed for modification, now is the time to reinstall it to the strut.
    Place a 1/2" USS flat washer (USS has large OD compared to SAE which has smaller OD) over a 1/2 x 2" hex bolt and pass the bolt through the 3/4 rod end. Slip a 1/2 SAE washer onto the bolt, apply thread lock compound and engage the rear end of the knuckle adapter bracket. Tighten the bolt to 80 ft/lbs.
    The spherical bearing end of the link mounts to the vacant threaded hole on the front end of the knuckle adapter bracket. Again, using a 1/2 x 2" bolt and two 1/2 SAE flat washers, sandwich the 5/8 rod end to the front of the knuckle adapter bracket. Be sure to apply thread lock compound to the bolt and tighten to 80 ft/lbs.
    This outlines the installation of one side and should be repeated for the remaining side. When complete, the wheel alignment should be set before driving the vehicle.
    Initial toe setting 0.1a to 0.3a in.
    Initial camber setting 0.5a negative.
    Drive safely!


    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

  6. #6
    kitcarnut
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    thanks Randolph, well it's in a mashine shop now for retreading and the gold tubes are bent I dont know if it matters. also did you have to trim off top ,where lower ball joint was ? right under the shaft. I tell you ,for that money it should be a snap no mod on his parts.

  7. #7
    Moderator FunnyWheels's Avatar
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    I sent you an e-mail with photos on it. My parts went together just fine. I had to ream out one hole on each upright. I did have to trim off a tab on the lower part of the upright where the ball joint attached. I also had to drill out the taper in the hole to use a bolt (supplied). Everything went fine.

    The power coating on some part was a bit thick and I filed and sanded those surface-bearing areas.

    Dave
    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    Quote Originally Posted by kitcarnut
    so ,no instruction, nothing fits! all I know, is trim off the knuckle bit. done.
    all treads are f.... maybe he used hand to bore it out.after all day of nothing now I have to take it machine shop to fix it.
    Heh it's only money.
    You need to contact Lee and let him know. Don't hold back, give him details. He is very experienced in the production of custom components like these but had next to zero experience with FIERO BASED components. He is using the instructions and information provided him by the former Held controllers, and as you've pointed out... they did not do the best job in providing adequate instructions.

    Lee really needs to know exactly what your issues are with that kit so that he can rework the process to correct it once and for all.

    I spent several hours on the phone with him going over all the details of the ill-fated installations that I have been through, and am going through.

    He is a long way from finding all the hidden issues with the HMS parts but needs our help to track them down. He won't know if we don't tell him.

    Please, call or write and tell him. Be as detailed as you can.

    Thanks,

    DKOV -

  9. #9
    Moderator FunnyWheels's Avatar
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    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    Just a little FYI, I had a problem with a bolt backing out on the drivers side. Lee sent me a special lock washer to correct the problem. The unfortunate thing is I have not had my car on the road since I installed the fix.

    Keep your eyes open on the bolt that holds the rear of the suspension to the helm joint on the spindle side facing the rear.

    Dave
    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

  10. #10
    kitcarnut
    Guest

    Re: bump steer by Held sucks

    DKOV or Dave what is Lee's E mail ? I,m going to re do it tomorow.
    Dave what kind of lock washer did he replaced? Can you cirle it on pics . Mashine shop charged me 60bucks to retread and one bolt was snaped so re drile and tap. thanks for your help.

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