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Thread: Taking a mold from a countach front bumper

  1. #1
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    Taking a mold from a countach front bumper

    Hey guys, I'm looking for sugestions. I'm not a total noob with fibreglass, I've been playing around and made a few molds lately but not multi piece molds. Obviously the front bumper for the countach is going to need to be made in more than one piece. Where would be the best places to have the joins be, and what methods/materials do people use for making the dams where the parting flanges will be? I won't have a heck of a lot of time to make these molds, or I would make the dams with wood. I had thought about using cardboard and aluminum foil tape. Photos might help aswell if anybody has them.

    Any help would be greatly apreciated

  2. #2
    Senior Member dwheeler's Avatar
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    Not necessarily. My bumper is part of the body.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Don's Avatar
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    Sorry Justin. I got the email you sent me and I have been drawing a picture to show you how I would do the mold. Will get it to you shortly.

    Cheers
    Don
    308 Ferrari replica
    Prova Countach 5000QV

  4. #4
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    I realy apreciate it Don.

    Cheers
    Justin

  5. #5
    Senior Member Don's Avatar
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    Thought I would post to the forum as well for the info I sent to Justin. This is a common method to molding and the Countach bumper/airdam add an additional complexity to molding by the fact that there are a lot of interconnecting seams/complex curves and joins between the bumper and air dam. The other piece as well is that the holes in the bumper and air dam are not necessarily parallel to each other therefore requiring additional complexity to make sure when pulling the part out, there won't be interference from any of these. I didn't show the inserts for the bumper in the pic but those are the relatively easy pieces. The had pieces will be pulling a mold panel off the front of the air dam where there is that set of oblong air ducts in the face that actually point downward. When you have both bumper and air dam connected and taking molds, you will need to make sure you can lift the air dam face mold up a bit to clear the air ducts before being able to pull the mold off.

    This is one of the main reasons I am making my bumper and air dam bucks in two pieces to simplify the molding process. It will be easy enough to glue/bolt the two pieces together afterward and fill in the joints if you want to than it will be to make the additional clearances for pulling the air dam front face off.

    Flares are much easier. Just make sure you make the molds thick enough or put reinforcing on the outside and glass over them so that the flares don't flex once pulled off. I ended up with more flexible molds than expected when taking them off the flares I molded on John's (flyhilandsoft's) reference Countach.

    Anyway, pic attached and if anyone needs more explanation, post questions.

    Cheers
    Don
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  6. #6
    Senior Member RCR's Avatar
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    Hi Don...For the flanges, you can use anything that will keep it's shape. I used pizza-box cardboard and other nick naks to make my flanges. I used modeling clay on the seams. Wax and PVA for separation.

    Bob
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  7. #7
    Senior Member MacGyver's Avatar
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    For flanges I always use the insolation cardboard from Home Depot. It has a slick surface you can wax. It can be cut with a box cutter, shears, scroll saw etc. I have tried other material but always go back to this stuff. Plus it takes hot glue well to hold it in place along with clay.

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    I've used those slick plastic signs that you can buy at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc. They wax and cut up well also. Which product are you using MacGyver? It may come in larger sections, as that's the only issue I've had.

  9. #9
    Senior Member MacGyver's Avatar
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    This is the stuff from Home Depot. A 4x8 sheet is about 12.00.
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  10. #10
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    Nice. Thanks for that tip. May be less expensive, and it is bigger that what I've been using. (I gathered old political signs in my garage for a while, they're free.)

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