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Thread: Bodywork questions!

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2001

    Bodywork questions!

    Well, I'm starting to work on the body of the 4Ari - now here's the problem: I've never done major bodywork before. So from what I've read/researched, here's the basic process.
    1) Mix body filler
    2) fill crack/seam with body filler.
    3) Sand with 40/60 sandpaper to get the very rough edges out
    4) Sand with 160ish.

    Any tricks of the trade? Here are pics of what I need to deal with:

  2. #2
    Senior Member cowans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002

    Re: Bodywork questions!

    Suggestion Ari, when mixing your catalyst and filler, DO NOT whip it up, or you will mix in air bubbles. When you sand, they will never come out. Sometimes, using a the bodyshop paste will clean up/smooth out the final prep.
    Good luck, it's an art!

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2001

    Re: Bodywork questions!

    Thanks for the tip Sandy - I've been practicing on other "Projects" (I.E. my Center console) before I do any work on the actual body kit to ensure I don't majorly screw anything up :P

    So when mixing the body filler, instead of a whipping motion I should use a "lift-push" method? (Life up a scoop of filler, push it back down, lift up a scoop, push it back down).

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2001

    Re: Bodywork questions!

    I've read that it is also critical to use body filler and sealer that is "designed" to work with the painting system you choose. Otherwise poor adhesion and bleeding can occur.

    Regular "bondo" is not the best choice

    DKOV -

  5. #5

    Re: Bodywork questions!

    I have used "Icing" on steel and fiberglass. my kit looks like it was attacked with an ice-pick along the edges. I use icing but wait for about 1 minute after mixing to start applying it so it thickens a little so it doesn't run out of the tiny holes & it resist bubbles. there is different "grades" of icing. however, when I patch a "chunk" I use "kitty hair" a fiber enforced filler, both sand down well w/ 120. i prime 2 coats with a gray epoxy primer no bleed through yet!!-YET

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2001

    Re: Bodywork questions!

    Hi just my two cents worth
    When I'm filling I use a straight edge, plastic on metal to drag along the body line to prevent
    having a lot of excess putty to sand off. Use a flat piece of rubber or wood behind sand paper to sand flat and be carefull with course grits they will really tare up your gel coat.

  7. #7

    Re: Bodywork questions!

    any glass area you need to clean up rough the area up with #80 paper. Like he said dont stir the filler/hardener. I use a thick metal sheet and mix by using a squeege type action to mash it together, then flip it over and mashing over and over untill its a consistent color. no gray spots in it, it wont harden there. You can rough sand it with #36 if its really rough or #80 untill its close to right. then add more to any low spots. finish it up with #180 (or finer if you want) and primer it with 4 or 5 good coats. Heavy, thick-but no runs or you have to block them out too. I use a hard wood block to level things out, not one of the handy rubber ones. Rubber will give and still leave it wavey, where hard one wont. Final sand for paint with #400 (or finer if you want). Cracks in glass have to be ground out in a 'V' beside cracks and clear down to glass fibers. then a patch of glass matting or fibers with resin on both sides if you can. then finish over the glass with reg filler. On stuff like the door edges, use Duraglas, is filler with fibers already chopped up in it. use like reg filler. U can use 2 inch masking tape to help hold it in place till it starts to cure. Glass and filler will not stick to masking tape, so when it starts setting you can just pull it off. I would use anything rougher than #80 on the edge, because it will cut it off to fast. Places like inside curves inside scoops, you have to sand out by hand, so try to get it fairly rite shape when its wet so less sanding. If fillers starts to harden up, stop spreading it. It wont adhere as well after it starts setting. reg filler or duraglass will start curing at 75* after just 4 or 5 mins at the most. so dont mix more than you can use in that time.

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