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Thread: Project Update

  1. #1
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    Project Update

    Got the car running again - fuel pump all replaced and back in, now it runs nice and strong!

    Next task: replacing the rear driver's side CV / axle. I rented a 30mm impact socket to remove the axle nut, will be doing that tomorrow. I've never replaced a cv joint before so will need some guidance as to the proper method. Pictures tomorrow

  2. #2
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    Re: Project Update

    Hi Ari: The CV job will be no real problem for you, Very first loosen the CV nut while the car is on the ground might as well do the lug nuts too while you're at it. Jack the car up support with jack stands. remove tire, E brake cable, brake caliper "tie up and out of the way" and rotor. take a shapri marker and scribe a line around the two bolts on the rear strut where it bolts to the spindle. "keep your allignment when re-asembling" Remove the allignment bar from the engine cradle to the rear side of the spindle, If you don't have a pickle fork or a nice tie rod end remover tool you can remove the bolt on the cradle. This will allow you to really move the spindle around. Next remove the cv nut completely, pull down on the spindle where it bolts to the strut. You may have to use a big flat head
    screwdriver and push the axle inward. After the cv axle spline is out of the hub, use a big pry bar or srewdriver and pop the cv out of the transaxle "tranny" Be careful not to damage the seal around the axle on the housing. It may be a pain but it'll pop out.
    gear oil will come out too so have a container close by. That's really all there is to it. when you install the new one you may have to
    tap the end of the axle with a mallot to get it all the way in. before you do this be sure its splined up in the transaxle so you don't scare up the spline. I'm sure you can figure out how to re-assemble. if not just ask. If I missed anything some please add or fix my instructions. I think I covered everything but maybe not. good luck Ari


    David


    EEExotic
    Just smart enough to be very Dangerous

  3. #3
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    Re: Project Update

    Ari,
    I second davids process with one exception, I think you should replace the tranny seal while you are at it. I didnt replace mine when I did my axles and when I filled the tranny, I had to repeat the steps over again. It is much easier to replace them now and they are not that expensive either.

    Glenn

  4. #4

    Re: Project Update

    That sounds like a lot of work.
    Remove the large axle nut. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Seperate the lower ball joint with a 'pickle fork' and this will give you enough room to remove the axle. No need to remove brakes, rotor, strut bolts or alignment tie rod. After the lower ball joint is disconnected, simple pull the front of the rotor outwards and this will give you enough room. At least for me in the past.
    The inner hub must be pryed out with something like a tire iron, heavy prybar or large screw driver.
    Installing it, you will need to rubber hammer it into the transmission until it clicks. Block of wood can take its place, just don't hit the threads with a hammer.

    Ari, just call me. I am off school for the summer and I can come give you a hand. I have a service truck full of tools.

    Jim 416-399-3918

  5. #5
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    Re: Project Update

    Quote Originally Posted by jdinner
    That sounds like a lot of work.
    Remove the large axle nut. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Seperate the lower ball joint with a 'pickle fork' and this will give you enough room to remove the axle. No need to remove brakes, rotor, strut bolts or alignment tie rod. After the lower ball joint is disconnected, simple pull the front of the rotor outwards and this will give you enough room. At least for me in the past.
    The inner hub must be pryed out with something like a tire iron, heavy prybar or large screw driver.
    Installing it, you will need to rubber hammer it into the transmission until it clicks. Block of wood can take its place, just don't hit the threads with a hammer.

    Ari, just call me. I am off school for the summer and I can come give you a hand. I have a service truck full of tools.

    Jim 416-399-3918
    Jim - Thanks for the offer, I was hoping to "save" your help for a problem I KNOW I can't complete myself If I called you whenever I ran into a "small" problem like this one we'd be speaking every hour!

  6. #6
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    Re: Project Update

    Got the CV out without any major problems, now out to order a new inner and outer CV joint as both seem pretty destroyed...

  7. #7
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    Re: Project Update

    Ari,
    why dont you just purchace a remanufactured axle assembly that way you dont have to go through all the work doing it yourself. They are not that expensive.

  8. #8

    Re: Project Update

    Quote Originally Posted by glenngdman
    Ari,
    why dont you just purchace a remanufactured axle assembly that way you dont have to go through all the work doing it yourself.* They are not that expensive.
    Yeah, and to do it right, there is a special band and special band tools to install the boots to the axle and joint. But for the cost of the joints, boots, and your time, it's probably cheaper to pick up a new/reman one.

  9. #9
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    Re: Project Update

    Priced out the parts, it costs $15 more to get the remanufactuerd one, so I'm just going to go that route
    Parts should be in Monday...

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