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Thread: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

  1. #1

    Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    I am trying to find a better way to clean dirty car parts. I went to Harbor Freight and saw sand blasters and the oil bucket with a pump. Which one would be better for the home?

    ShaneW

  2. #2
    Senior Member sactodreamer's Avatar
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    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    Unless you want sand all over the place stay away from the sandblaster. *At least not for the home use. *Actually I guess if your doing a part at a time, it wouldn't be too bad. *I had a friend who sandblasted the engine compartment of a project he was working on but didn't cover everything to well enough and it got EVERYWHERE. *

    -Guess I wan't much help........ :-\

  3. #3
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    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    No matter how well you cover things the sand gets every were, when sand blasting.You will also have to buy thick long protective rubber gloves a good safety mask or resperater.I have sand blasted a few times,small parts should be sand blasted in a cabinet (much easeyer and cleaner).You might try the phone book under parts cleaning. One way to keep clean is to wear disposible gloves (chemical proof and none chemical proof).Large objects such as a motor can be steam cleaned (try the phone book under auto detailing).One part at a time is slow,but doesn't take too long.
    The road to life is full of flat squirrels, who couldn't make up their mind!

  4. #4
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    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    Soda blasting works great...and not as abrasive as sand, so you can still do body panels without warping them. It's basically a sandblaster, you have to adjust the pressure for the soda you are using, humidity really affects it. Gloves and a mask are necessary, but in the end, it can be rinsed or blkown off easily, and won't contaminte the area if you are blasting outside.

  5. #5

    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    What you need is this to convert that hig-pressure Harbor freight unit over to a better design with CONTROL just by changing the hose routing, adding a regulator and a few other things.. About $30 total at Home Depot to convert it..

    This guy sells the plans.. ding ding ding

    http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...rid=esche10276

    Then you can remove rust from steel or tune it down and use it to remove the paint from urethane..

    Did a whole corvette body with mine that had 4 layers of paint, Now its bare fiberglas !

    6-hours and not a single CLOG or STOP to clear one! Whoot!

    Only time we stopped was to re-load the tank..

    Rob

  6. #6
    Senior Member Don's Avatar
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    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    I use both a cleaning solution and a sand blasting cabinet.

    I clean the parts with the cleaner to get any dirt and oil/grease off and then wash it with soap and water. I then put it in the sand blasting cabinet and take all paint and/or rust off the parts to clean them up before painting and reinstalling. I have done, pretty much every part I have taken off this way sop far and it is working very well for me.

    I also built a plastic room/area where I hung 6 mil plastic down from the ceiling making a small compartment in the empty bay of the garage and had more plastic on the floor. I sand blasted my engine cradle that way and got it pretty much clean as well ready for paint.

    You can sand blast anywhere, but like the folks above said, you really need to cover everything else up and work out how to contain the sand bouncing or make a room like I did to contain it. It will go everywhere if you do not. I was able to reuse all my sand in my room because I would just pick up the plastic off the floor and pour the sand back in the bucket.

    Sure does a nice job of finishing the metal pieces before priming and painting though. I think it is worth the extra effort with all the other work and money we are pouring into these things.

    Cheers
    Don
    308 Ferrari replica
    Prova Countach 5000QV

  7. #7

    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    Like Don, I get excellent results using a chemical/water cleaning followed by a glass-bead blast. If you scrape most of the dirt and grease off first manually, the tank cleaning removes any remaining oil or grease, and the bead blast produces a really clean part. The bead blasting leaves metal parts with a velvet surface that's perfect for paint adhesion.

    You can buy a decent cleaning tank (with pump) for under $75 these days. You can build a good bead blast cabinet yourself for under $100 (or you can buy one for about $300), but you will also need a good (> 10 cfm) air compressor and a shop vac.

    Although relatively expensive, I still rate the bead blast cabinet as one of the most useful (and most used) tools in my shop. Like a lot of quality tools, once you have it you will find all kinds of uses for it.

  8. #8

    Re: Cleaning parts (oil or sand blasting)

    If you're using actual sand for your blasting, please read the hazard alert at the link below. Sand really should not be used for "sand"blasting.
    http://www.cdc.gov/elcosh/docs/d0100...3/d000023.html


    Be safe!

    Tim P.

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