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Thread: lowering your fiero

  1. #1
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    lowering your fiero

    well i have the body all mounted, now i want to lower the car about 1.5 to 1.75 inches what is the best way thats not to expensive......
    someone said if you cut the coils with a cutoff wheel and keep them cold while doing it it will keep the tension, but if they get hot they are now junk... if it works how much do i cut off

    or what did other people use?.....

  2. #2
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    they won't get that hot with a cut off wheel ?...just don't cut anymore than 1 coil or you will bottom out on bumps etc try 1/2 to 3/4 of a coil to start as always be careful with springs they can be dangerous when using spring compressors or prying them out of their perches and such ..john

  3. #3
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    off the top part of the sring?

  4. #4
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    There are a couple of ways to do it. Cutting the springs is the least desirable. You might also have to modify your bump-stops. You should at a minimum consider purchasing lowering springs. I have these on one car and I am not impressed with the handling but it is ok. Drop spindles are ok, but the correct way to do it and it's not cheap is to use the Held Motorsports Slalom front end with the proper hub/spindles and coilovers and the complete rear bumpsteer package with coilovers. I have this on all the other Fiero based replicas and when combined with the correct wheel and tire combination gives the driver the feeling that you are on train tracks. This package also allows you to install 12 or 13" brakes. I'm not trying to sound like a commercial but to me its well worth the time, effort and money to do the HMS total package. This way your replica can hang with the real car you are replicating! Take care. Bill

  5. #5
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    where do i get the parts and whats the ball park im looking at spending ???

  6. #6
    Moderator FunnyWheels's Avatar
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    Here is the cost for the suspension in 1999 when I purchased it from Ryan Motor Sports

    To: Daryl Armstrong @ RYANE MOTOR SPORTS

    From:


    Dave Newman
    Oldsmar, Florida 34677

    13 Feb 99

    Revised 15 Mar 99



    Background: Building a 355 Ferrari replica, GM 3800 / 207HP V6 engine to be installed. Car is 4 wider in front and 8 wider in rear. Street use only. After using wheel spacers to line it all up and driving it with stock brakes The standard suspension is worn out and wide wheel adapters really complicate the whole project. I want to install a proper suspension package with coil over shocks, sway bars and larger brakes. Need to have bigger bolt circle. Going from 5/100mm to 5/108mm.

    I have spoken to you several times on the phone. I am confused regarding using a larger bolt circle on the rear. I have located some 88 Olds 98 uprights. You mentioned you would be willing to machine the bearing seat to install larger bearings and hubs.

    Newmans 355 Front Slalom Suspension Guidelines:

    5 / 108mm5 Bolt Circle
    Spring Rate 325#
    4 Wider Track (2 each side)
    Coil Over Shocks
    Front Sway Bar 1.125 Diameter
    Longer tie rod ends
    Powder Coat All Parts
    Wilwood 12 Front Brake Kit
    Larger Master Cylinder
    Pressure Valve
    Stainless Braided Lines

    Newmans 355 Rear Slalom Suspension Guidelines:

    5 / 4.75 Bolt Circle, use adapter to mount 5/108mm
    Spring Rate 350#
    8 Wider Track (4 each side)
    Strut Tower Relocate Plates
    Bielstien Struts
    Coil Over Adapters
    Tie Rod Ends
    Wilwood 12 Rear Brake Kit
    Stainless Braided Lines
    Rear Sway Bar 1 Diameter
    Powder Coat All Parts

    Suggested Parts Needed:

    Front Hubs, Axles, CV Joints from S10 Chevy 4 X 4, 1988 - 1990 Cutlass
    Sierra or Buick Regal FWD, Front upright Assembly.
    (Assembly is meatier than Fiero and can be machined out for larger S10 4 X 4 bearings)
    Include Caliper, Rotor, Spindle, CV Joint, Axle, 5/4.75 Bolt Circle.


    $4300.00

    Please e-mail newmdav@ispwest.com

    Since then in 2003 I have added big sway bars at each end, $110 each, changed to anti-bump steering in the rear add $625 then moved the rear strut inboard 2 inches $120 for the parts.

    Thanks

    Dave
    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

  7. #7
    Senior Member FerrariFan's Avatar
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    I also used HMS sport front suspension coilovers with drop spindles and Rodney Dickmans lowering ball joints.
    Even the longest journey begins with the first step.

  8. #8

    Re: lowering your fiero

    I have tried both - if you cut the springs they wont sit properly in the seats on the struts or the top tower - go over a bump and you *could* unseat your springs. I have used lowering springs - they work nice - and inexpensive. I also had the the lowering spindles. Note you cant use both spindles and front lowering springs - the car will hit bottom. Funny thing thou - you cant just buy the rear springs either. In any case springs or spindles - they are getting harder to find then they were 5 - 10 years ago.
    Visit My KitCarOnLine Blog<br />http://www.kitcaronline.ca and Links Site at http://www.kitcars.ca

  9. #9
    Senior Member Kstix's Avatar
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    On the back I used a coilover kit. I got mine for $70.00

  10. #10
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    Re: lowering your fiero

    just to clarify I have never cut rear springs it was the front I was in reference too ...of course the Held set-up is superior ...he was asking about cheap ways to lower

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