Most of the regular (house) expanding liquid foams on the market are not flammable, BUT they are designed to expand at least 5-10 times their original volume which can damage your car panels. No matter how many holes you add around the foam, the regular stuff will do lots of problems while trying to go outside. Use only specialty made expanding foam for cars, although they are more expensive.

anyone know whos got a LP640 Spyder shell for sale or maybe not an exact copy but pretty close. We just need the outer panels whether in pieces or one shell or 2 clips with the view of re bodying a British car or maybe a world wide car. Also the windshield glass and side windows must be available to source.
Im in the uk.

thanks



dragonexotics@gmail.com

Unfortunately, there's not an universal answer of that question because every car is different, both in size and design. It all depends of the overall shape and complexity of details, as well as selected material and the company/person who will do the job. One can do the job for $1,000, another can do it for $20,000. There are lots of foam types, each with different density (hardness) and price. The foam's density will determine the type and thickness (i.e. price) of the protective layer you apply over the foam plug. Too soft foam will require a thicker protective layer, and vice versa. Thicker also means heavier. Too complex or deep details will require the 3d model to be split in even more pieces, hence the longer programing&machine time and cost. If you need details, such like door sills, hood and engine cover sills, mounting points etc to be included, some of the body pieces must be machined as separate plugs (doors, bumpers, rocker panels/side skirts, hood, engine cover, glasses, fuel cap). Depending of the complexity, a set of separate panel plugs with full details require about 50-200% more foam, programing and machine time than a regular single piece outer shape, but the advantage is that you won't bother with adding the missing details manually during your build since they are already carved symmetrically by the CNC-machine. For full details, you either design these in your 3d model of pay some extra bucks to the company to do that work for you prior the actual CNC-milling. Hopefully this helps.

found this on craigslist and thought someone might be interested... its in south florida

http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/1852646628.html


Diablo Roadster that was built on a stretched Fiero - $1 (florida)

Diablo Roadster that was built on a stretched Fiero V6 engine
automatic transmission
body is exact frame is all correct
body is already mounted
still needs more work to be done to be completed
i have the glass and everything you will be needing
good deal for someone
sold as is
561..935..4541

re the reventon:
anyone who can get the car looking close and running well will sell them,there are people over here in the uk quoting potential customers 40 k uk sterling to build lambo gallardo/murcelago replicas!!!!idiots  who in their right mind would spend 40 thousand uk pounds on a pretend car that you can actualy go and buy  a real one for hardly any less???  but a 1million buck super rare replica like the reventon..well yeah i recon 40k would be a viable sum to ask for a road registered roadworthy well built rep
imo

This site is probably expensive but go to www.aircraftspruce.com and search for liquid foam or
 X-30 foam. We use it in aircraft, should be good for cars or boats.

woo hoo lookin good cant wait to see more pics.

When I mounted the hinges to the hood I saw that only a very small part of the hood was resting on the hinges so I filled up the space between so the weight is a bit more spread.

Mounted on the hinges it’s way better than before.

Then I knew where to put the “new”lock .
With a 2 little spacers I mounted them in to place.
Only there I ran into a problem because when I closed the hood it didn’t want to lock.
 
I started last week on the mirrors, I took the original one’s from the mr2 en cut out the plate that was holding the motor so I could prepare them to put in the new one’s.
After fitting two strips in the new mirrorcups it was very easy to mount the holderplate.

And because I wasn’t happy with the gap between the door an the side fenders I added an extra 3 cm of fibreglass to fill it up, then mounted back the frontpanel and started to shape it up.
This is one side done,(the rest will be taking care of by my painters).

When that was done I started on the fuellcap.
Because there is a line over the whole side of the car I had to let  pass it through over the cap.
So I made a small cut at the back and heated up the cap so I could bent it the right way.
After a little ajustment on the lock I could mount it and it works like a charme.

That’s it for today.
By the way it's a lot more work then I expected, I think it's not possible to build this in 5 days with the same quality standards I use.
(not trying to offend anyone, just giving info for future builders)
Greets, Nathan

bolt pattern is same as corvette, and lamborghini. 19x8.5 front 20x13 rear.

another: