I decided to go topless late 2001 and started the project that involved removal of my Mirage kit (the proportions were too far off) then adding parts from Tommy Hilfiger's Challenge Car and various other OEM 355 Ferrari's combined with Air-Dynamics parts.
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FunnyWheels-Going Topless?
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Re:Going Topless?
The attached shots are of the top removal process and frame bracing that was installed for a Mirage Kit in 1998. All of the Mirage and Fiero parts will need to be removed and a new "X" frame added to the bottom of the Fiero to make the car stiffer plus the addition of a jack leg to support the rear portion of the Fiero Chassis.
If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.
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Re:Going Topless?
Cutting the top requires a little patience. Most kits require a cut just behind the Fiero hard top mounting holes. I taped a line across the top with silver tape and fired up the sawzall. Measure twice cut once. The frame brace needs to be in place before this cutting process takes place or you will not be able to line up your doors and frame properly.
If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.
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Re:Going Topless?
I sold the entire Mirage Kit to Bondo Bob. He is installing it on a 4 banger/4 speed Fiero donor that will be available for sale in few weeks. All you will need to do is paint it add wheels and interior and have some fun. This will remove the pain like Ari experienced with his kit. Mounting and aligning the body is the hardest part of building a kit.If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.
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Re:Going Topless?
I cut the doors on my 355 Ferrari rendition to use a Challenge lower door scoop. I removed 1 1/4 inches from lower part of Fiero door to provide clearance for the rocker panel.
Step one: Remove door:
Step two: decide where to cut and what bracket you will need to re use like the window stop. There is a ridge to use as a guide to follow stamped in the lower portion of the Fiero door just below where the “Christmas Trees” that hold the door panel are located.
Step three: Mark your cut area, drill out a few spot-welds, light up a good cigar and cut away.
If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.
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Re:Going Topless?
Reassembly:
Step one: Move cut section of door up and inside the upper door.
Step two: Drill holes to mount window stop, brackets and window track.
Step three: I used 5 pop rivets to attach the door parts the door parts in spots that were not covered with the bolting procedures.
Step four: I know there may be more steps but you get the idea. Hang door on car, finish cigar, and admire your accomplishment.
If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.
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Re:Going Topless?
Hey!
Could I get some drawings of that reinforcement you did to the rear end? My car has a lot of "twist" (And I hate the X brace it has) I like your setup alot more....Would love to learn how to do it...and get rid of all this flex...I am worried about it, since my Spyder is a daily driver.
Steve87 3.1Turbo GT Spyder
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Re:Going Topless?
Rear Frame support...even though my car isn't stretched, I think I could modify your design....
I did not notice the rear strut brace...but that sounds like it would add some rigidity.
This car twists a lot...especially on driveways when you are at an angle. Makes me worried about a kit body..as I would probably crack it after awhile.
I was thinking of doing series box...(actually three rectangles, one on each side under pass tubs, then tying them together around the fuel tank) then monting the frame bolsters, and the cage to this box. If I channeled it, I should be able to maintain ground clearance, and then be able ro do things like remove the fuel tank if necessary...lol.
My plan is to tie the box, to the cross member behind the front suspension, and then to the cross memember that ties the cradle to the unibody.
There is a chassis shop here...they do good work, and I dont think it would cost too much....what do you guys thing? Would it help?
Steve
87 3.1Turbo GT Spyder
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