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Way to go!!!
Does anyone know what happened to John Watson. I enjoyed all my trips to Georiga and visits with John. I cannot count how many hours he and I spoke on the phone.Comment
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Good to see you back at it. Scoops look real good.
BobBob custom '84 Fiero SE --->>> custom F408
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Glad to see you back! I'm hoping to get back to work on mine again soon. I'm loving the deep scoops, that's one thing I really like about the 355. If my car wasn't painted when I got it I would have changed it....... Maybe if I ever get a repaint.[url]http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/build-diaries/8454-my-official-ad355-build-thread-sactodreamer.html[/url]Comment
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He is still around he has been busy singing Nu Cuntry Music in TN I talk to him 3-4 times a month, he is a great guy!Originally posted by DeLorean00 View Post
Very glad to see a build thread come back to life, I’m going to start one as soon as I start my build I’ve just been too busy making parts for other people since I bought John’s molds from BartMan that I haven’t been able to finish laying up my kit!
RobComment
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Hello Rob what do you charge for an AD355 roof section.Originally posted by DCT1964 View PostComment
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bump... bump, bump... bump... bump, bump (sounds of life emerging)Comment
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Good to see you're checking in, How are you doing and and is retirement treating you well ? Also update us on the build when you have time. -VinceRemember, there is always next year.Comment
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I'm well. Finishing up my University degree this fall. Retirement is going well too. Here's some pics of the trunk lid work I did today. As my build posts stated earlier, I bought the last AD355 kit produced by JW. It was when he was deathly ill and could hardly move. The parts weren't finished in the typical JW quality because of his illness, but I was glad to get whatever he could produce. This lid was originally a long lid, standard Ferrari size. I had to cut it down to fit my non-stretched car. I made a rookie miscalculation and cut it too short, thus, the top edge repairs that need to be filled and sanded. I spent yesterday and today cutting out the louvers and sanding them down. I still need to sand the radius at the ends of each louver. I have to get a tip that will do those rounded edges. My discs sanding pads won't do the job. I mocked up the lid with the wire mesh grill I ordered from Grangier, and the two support bars I intend to use. Enjoy!
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Today's progress... made a trip to the local O'Rielly's to pick up a sphere shaped grinding stone in order to finish off the radius at the end of each louver. Made quick work of it, but you gotta be real gentle or it'll eat right through the fiberglass! With all those done, I turned my attention towards the back of the lid where the fiberglass rails on the sides just stop abruptly before reaching the back of the lid. I grabbed some square tubing, and measured the angles to cut and bend the ends to meet the fiberglass rails. a little arc welding, and a lot of grinding later... the bar fits perfect! I'll fiberglass the ends where they meet to make it look continuous. The planning took way longer than the work. I had to triple check the hood hinges would clear, and that it was set back far enough from the edge of the lid so as not to interfere with the lid lifting. The new bar fits right in the "dip" of the Lebaron convertible hinges I'm using (just like the Ferrari does). Now for some pre-clean up pictures....
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Ok, need a new plan.
The bar across the back of the lid looked nice and gave it a more finished look, but it's too heavy and when the weight of the two bars are added, I feel it'll be too much for my offset hinge bracket to keep steady. I don't want a flimsy setup that sways around when the lid is up. So, the bar is gone. Thinking about a suitable replacement. Maybe just fiberglass? Also, my hinges are in wrong spot. After all that work and careful planning, I put the lid on and the hinges need to move back 3/4" and up about 2". The up, I can just slot the mounting holes so the hinges can be adjusted up and down. But, the "back", the adapter needs to come off and I will have to grind the welds off and shorten the horizontal pieces.The good news is, once the hinges are moved back and up, the oil dipstick won't be in the way anymore.
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Could you use thinner wall steel or maybe aluminum to lighten it up?Comment
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Get some plastic 3/4" electrical conduit, cut it in half (to form a semi-circle), then bond it to the deck lid and cover with fiberglass. It will make it super rigid without adding much weight.Comment
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If you can, you might want to look at the aluminium option which gives the strength but not the weight. The hinge area you want pretty strong so when it goes up and down it doesn't bend and crack over time. Adding a couple layers of glass over the bar will allow you to feather in the look to the rest of the under side and again and adds to the strength. Oh and only moving the hinge once is not bad at all... a win really.....
Keep the updates coming.
Cheers
Don
308 Ferrari replica
Prova Countach 5000SComment
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