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  • My build

    Hey guys,
    just wanted to say hi. Been following the builds on here for a number of years now and its about time I added mine.

    tube chassis with fiberglass body is the idea. Using a 4x8 cnc table to cut foam buck.
    Should have the body done over the winter as well as the headlights, tail lights, interior gauge cluster and other insturments/controls.
    I'm really looking forward to the guage cluster since I think it will be the most fun, there are a few diffrent parts,sections,and ideas which make it all work so it will be a good challenge to make everything come together.

    I havn't decided on an engine yet as I'd like to find something with a paddel shift... all of the high end racing gearboxes are a small fortune so I was tinkering with the idea of two bike engines with a paddle shift kit wired to the gearboxes. However from reading it seems the downside is there tends to be a lot of backlash in the bike engine rear diff/transfer units so that might not work.

    I'm not going to go into great detail on what i'm building but I hope to have some pictures up soon of the build progress and hopfully I can bounce some ideas/concerns off some of you guys.

    in the meantime I'll link a few pictures of the 3d model and pics.

    http://www.3d02.com/image.aspx?asset...=7&w=446&h=335
    http://cdn.automoblog.net/wp-content...gg_Agera-2.jpg
    http://www.luxuo.com/wp-content/uplo...gg-agera_1.jpg
    http://www.carshowp.com/wp-content/u...-Side-View.jpg

  • #2
    Re: My build

    good luck , you are in the right track

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: My build

      Hi there I like your project very much. Were are you located? Even do I build the Bugatti Veyron replica the Koenigsegg is by far my favored supercar. Good luck and looking forward to see this project coming to life. Orlando M.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: My build

        paddle shift on a bike engine is as easy as it gets. all you need is a simple ignition interrupt by bazzaz,power commander, graves ect. take it one step further and get an air shift kit from a drag bike catalog and the sky's the limit . its not like on automatic cars. there would no time for the diff to have a lash issue. it happens in milliseconds.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: My build

          Orlando, thanks for the kind words.. Your work is incredible! I'm located in Canada near Niagara Falls.

          Twilight Z, would you know if the air shift kit a better way to go vs. the electric shift kits?
          The lash I'm referring to is generated from the gearbox used to mate the two bike engines, I believe from my quick browsing on the twin bike engine powered cars topic I've found that the guys who used the zcars drivebox were disappointed with the backlash they were seeing in the axles.. I haven't fully investigated into this as I think its quite complex getting two bike engines mated to one differential and throw the reverse in there some how, but I hope to look into it further as I progress deeper into this project.

          I still feel that is the best way to go since a full racing dogbox with pneumatic shift + a 9000+ redline race built engine would cost upwards of 20 grand in itself.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: My build

            This is going to be interesting to see one of these replicated.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: My build

              Originally posted by JUGGERNAUT
              Orlando, thanks for the kind words.. Your work is incredible! I'm located in Canada near Niagara Falls.

              Twilight Z, would you know if the air shift kit a better way to go vs. the electric shift kits?
              The lash I'm referring to is generated from the gearbox used to mate the two bike engines, I believe from my quick browsing on the twin bike engine powered cars topic I've found that the guys who used the zcars drivebox were disappointed with the backlash they were seeing in the axles.. I haven't fully investigated into this as I think its quite complex getting two bike engines mated to one differential and throw the reverse in there some how, but I hope to look into it further as I progress deeper into this project.

              I still feel that is the best way to go since a full racing dogbox with pneumatic shift + a 9000+ redline race built engine would cost upwards of 20 grand in itself.
              basically air shifting is making the paddles electric. otherwise the paddles would be mechanical. both would use and ignition interrupt to allow the shifts.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: My build

                There are products on the market that turn common automatic transmissions into paddle shift transmissions. Do a google search for transmission control unit and paddle shift.

                The sound of an engine revving 9000+ is huge amongst some. The v6 engine found in cars like the Mazda Mx3, Ford Probe, and Miata can be tuned to rev above 9000rpm+ as well as use ITBs. Here's that v6 KL engine tuned
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AACd9YZlh5E

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: My build

                  Originally posted by Twilight Z
                  basically air shifting is making the paddles electric. otherwise the paddles would be mechanical. both would use and ignition interrupt to allow the shifts.
                  ah, I got it, thanks for clearing that up.


                  Originally posted by SendEm
                  There are products on the market that turn common automatic transmissions into paddle shift transmissions. Do a google search for transmission control unit and paddle shift.

                  The sound of an engine revving 9000+ is huge amongst some. The v6 engine found in cars like the Mazda Mx3, Ford Probe, and Miata can be tuned to rev above 9000rpm+ as well as use ITBs. Here's that v6 KL engine tuned
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AACd9YZlh5E
                  I agree, I remember seeing murci me's build way back when he did a paddel shift conversion. The issue I think with just doing it on a normal auto box is the gears are not stright cut gears, meaning shifts would take forever.. a dual clutch box setup would speed things up, but from driving the sst evo x, it shifts are still delayed and slow.

                  Then you have the cost of building the auto box to hold any type of decent power reliably... I've herd most drag racing auto boxes are about $5 grand and up. Then you have to build a some what reliable mx3 v6 or whatever to withstand 9000+rpm.. defninetly not cheap.. I would est around 7-10 grand.

                  I'd rather just run two stock 1200cc or 1400cc bike engines and have the very quick shifts and at the end of the day, if one blows apart, I can rest knowing a new one wont break the bank.. Now if your built engine or gearbox lets go, thats a big blow.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: My build

                    That sound is pretty killer. F1 sound to me. What are the costs, pros/cons to having a set up like that in a replica?


                    Originally posted by SendEm
                    There are products on the market that turn common automatic transmissions into paddle shift transmissions. Do a google search for transmission control unit and paddle shift.

                    The sound of an engine revving 9000+ is huge amongst some. The v6 engine found in cars like the Mazda Mx3, Ford Probe, and Miata can be tuned to rev above 9000rpm+ as well as use ITBs. Here's that v6 KL engine tuned
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AACd9YZlh5E
                    White Fugazzi Bentley Supersport Convertible GTC

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: My build

                      If you know how to work on cars, it's cheap to run that KL engine in the configuration the guy in the video has it. I have done the research in the past. The best version of that engine is under $1000. He ran the engine with a cheap standalone that certainly was under $1500, but could have been in the $400 or less range due to the simplicity of the engine. He fabricated Hayabusa ITBs, and off the top of my head I think that he had some custom cams made. That's it. It's no more expensive than tuning Honda and Toyota 4cyl engines. The standalone ECU allowed him to remove the rev limiter, and I'm pretty sure that a custom exhaust manifold was also used to take advantage of the better cam and intake. The guy built the engine for power, but most around here would just really want the sound so custom cams and exhaust manifold are optional.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: My build

                        I like this sound better

                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIfHIx20SNc

                        cool build, I'll have to check it out sometime

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: My build

                          its not to hard to get great power and descent torque out of the turbo hayabusa's and only need one motor.
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IUon...eature=related

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: My build

                            Hey guys, wondering if anyone can suggest a good way to go about replicating the key?

                            see here
                            http://www.rs6.com/pics/Various/2008-TSP/2008TSP-1.jpg

                            There are a few good high res shots around the internet I can reference from but I will not be able to ever get an actual key.
                            Just wondering if anyone has any ideas which may work.

                            Thanks all.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: My build

                              I am highly interested in this, i have recently been stuffing around with a space frame design (not getting very far yet and i really should be finishing my EV lotus 7 so i have space in the shed to build it) to suit the Koenigsegg - though i was thinking more along the lines of a CCGT (simpler interior as its a race car). Have a large collection of photos as part of this.

                              I was thinking along the lines of a V8 to a standard 6 manual transmission, in Australia bike engines are hard to get through rego (emissions). Then supercharge once its running to get the performance up.

                              How far have you got with the space frame design, my thought was take a lambo chassis then stretch/shrink as its all very close.
                              Wheel base Diablo is 185mm longer (though i am not sure the wheelbase of the Agera is 2660mm)
                              Length diablo is 165mm longer
                              Width diablo is 44mm wider
                              Height Agera is 15mm higher
                              Tyres are also a little bigger 19 and 20in vs 17's on the diablo.
                              An easy way to compare is to use this website: http://www.carfolio.com

                              Key wise, look at the new mitis or toyotas as they have those kind of remote keys. If you wanted low tech & easy, just a push button behind were you put the block in?

                              Comment

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