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  • Nick, I'd suggest you dip the whole thing in acid or thinner to eat the gel coat out of the inside of the plenums, it will eventually crack from the heat of the v12 and get sucked in to the engine and cause some damage that you will be fixing in the future, bad idea to paint the inside with gelcoat

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    • Originally posted by prototype2 View Post
      Nick, I'd suggest you dip the whole thing in acid or thinner to eat the gel coat out of the inside of the plenums, it will eventually crack from the heat of the v12 and get sucked in to the engine and cause some damage that you will be fixing in the future, bad idea to paint the inside with gelcoat
      Hi Chanthu
      The aim is to keep the plenums really cool, the old ones didnt get that hot. I want to make sure they are totally air tight and smooth inside. What ever I make will be 10000% smother than the old ones and I was told by a buddy who races that this is quite a good mod. After all, you could make the whole plenum in composite if you had the tooling I guess.
      Regards
      Nick

      Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

      Comment


      • Today i started on the body again and removed 6mm from one door alone! To be honest, most of it just fell off. For some strange reason there was a sheet of steel between some of the plies of GRP, when I got down to that level a whole veneer of GRP simply peeled off and my door lost a load of weight and looks so much tbetter. I am redoing the opening lines as I want a bigger gap at the base of the door when its fully lifted. this will also strengthen the front wing/fender.

        So after making a TONNE of dust I cleaned the door with acetone and bonded the door to the front wing/fender.

        I also started to make my super smooth skin that i hope to surface the side of the car with, I marked out the panels on my HUGE sheet of glass (thanks Geoff) and laid down some gel coat. I will then lay down a couple of sheets of matting and bond that to the car with epoxy resin.

        well thats the plan anyway..
        It doesn't look very prestty now but it will when its done. I had to sort this out as it was depressing me. I sat in the car last night and played with the sound system etc.. and the door really really really let it all down, impossible to get in/out and heavy and a bad shape. Now its so much better.

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        Regards
        Nick

        Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

        Comment


        • Hi Nick, i was wondering, the body youre modeling now, is ot just for a plug to take molds of it or the permanent body? Because i can bet it weighs a ton with all bondo and filler and stuff ^^ btw awesome car (i asked this because i secretly hope youre gonna do it so i can have it too, buying it of course)

          Comment


          • Originally posted by rotor View Post
            Hi Nick, i was wondering, the body youre modeling now, is ot just for a plug to take molds of it or the permanent body? Because i can bet it weighs a ton with all bondo and filler and stuff ^^ btw awesome car (i asked this because i secretly hope youre gonna do it so i can have it too, buying it of course)
            The car weighs 1200kgs, most of that is the huge heavy V12. i dont think i will be making molds, maybe someone on here can do that?
            Regards
            Nick

            Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

            Comment


            • Hows the carpc doing your sorted all the software out for it ?

              CdRsKuLL

              Comment


              • Originally posted by CdRsKuLL View Post
                Hows the carpc doing your sorted all the software out for it ?

                CdRsKuLL
                hi,
                The PC is awesome. I am running Windows 7 and its connected to the Sony Xplod by USB to the 2 x 500w amps, so the sound is seriously good.
                I have MS map point on it which can use the inbuilt GPS.

                however, i want to run a better satnav and a digital speedo, any ideas? I did try some shareware thuff, but it wasnt much good. I also need to run tuner studio/megatune for the ecu
                Regards
                Nick

                Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

                Comment


                • Originally posted by nicktruman View Post
                  Today I "gel coated" the plenums. I painted the inside of the plenums with a layer of gelcoat which has made the inside not only air tight but also very slippery. I also coated the outside and the painted with VHT red paint. Now the plenums are sealed I want to coat the tube part with carbon fibre, they should look reall cool then Then they can go back on the car.

                  Red stuff on cars looks good !

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]19138[/ATTACH]
                  I see your making some progress on your car. I don't think the gelcoat inside the plenums is a good idea ether

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]19139[/ATTACH]
                  I see your making some progress on your car. I don't think the gelcoat inside the plenums is a good idea ether. Hopefully it will work for you and prove us wrong.

                  I see you have an old Black and Decker Workmate. I just bought one last week at a flea market. Thought it would come in handy holding stuff.
                  My Projects:

                  http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...y-project.html
                  http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...-facelift.html
                  http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...430-build.html

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by MacGyver View Post
                    I see your making some progress on your car. I don't think the gelcoat inside the plenums is a good idea ether. Hopefully it will work for you and prove us wrong.

                    I see you have an old Black and Decker Workmate. I just bought one last week at a flea market. Thought it would come in handy holding stuff.
                    Ok, I tried to get it out of the plenums but its very solid - I am going to suck it and see, I guess the car will be in bits enough times to keep my eyes on what happens!

                    I love my workmate, truely great bit of garage kit and the only bench I have that is not cluttered!

                    This morning I bonded my nice flat laminate to the car, I have used Hempel epoxy resin. This stuff is designed for bonding grp to the inside of steel water tanks its seriously tough... and hard to work with., at UK temperatures its like sticky toffee at room temperature, I had to stick it in the microwave to get it usable with a brush. Once in place I riveted it at regular spots. ITS SO FLAT!! If this works I will do the rest of the car and save a load on bondo and weight, it will also make the car very water proof.

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                    It does not look much now but its so much better, Where teh tape is is where my new door line will be. This will give much more clearance when the door is lifted, and make the arch on the front fender much neater.mmJust have to wait a week now until its cured.


                    Below is the data sheet for the resin:
                    HEMPEL’S EPOXY RESIN 05500

                    CURING AGENT 98500

                    Description: HEMPEL’S EPOXY RESIN 05500 is a solvent-free, two-component polyamine epoxy coating. It cures to a hard abrasion resistant coating with good chemical resistance.

                    Recommended use: For rebottoming of interior steel storage tanks with fibre woven mat in “hand lay-up” FRP systems. HEMPEL’S EPOXY RESIN 05500 can also be used to reinforce the interior of concrete storage tanks.

                    Approval: Saudi Aramco approved product under APCS 20A.
                    SASO Potable Water Certificate to BS 6920.

                    PHYSICAL CONSTANTS: Colours/Shade nos.: Translucent green/00000

                    Finish: Glossy

                    Volume solids: 100%

                    Theoretical spreading rate: 1.0 m2/litre - (1500 microns - including glass mat, tissue & gel coat). 32 sq.ft./US gallon - 50 mils
                    Flash point: Non-flammable

                    Specific gravity: 1.1 kg/litre - 9.2 lbs/US gallon

                    Dry to touch: 24 hours at 20°C/68°F

                    Fully cured: 7 days at 20°C/68°F

                    APPLICATION DETAILS: Mixing ratio: Base 05500 : Curing agent 98500 1.8 : 1 by volume
                    Application method: Brush Roller

                    Thinner (max. vol..): Do not dilute Do not dilute

                    Pot life: 4 hours (20°C/68°F)

                    Cleaning of tools: HEMPEL’S TOOL CLEANER 99610

                    Indicated film thickness: System including mat, tissue and gel coat approx. 1500 microns/60 mils.
                    Double layer mat approximately 3000 microns/120 mils.

                    Recoat interval, min.: 24 hours (20°C/68°F)

                    Recoat interval, max.: 3 days (20°C/68°F)

                    Safety: Handle with care. Before and during use, observe all safety labels on packaging and paint containers, consult HEMPEL Material Safety Data Sheets and follow all local or national safety regulations. Avoid inhalation, avoid contact with skin and eyes, and do not swallow. Take precautions against possible risks of fire or explosions as well as protection of the environment. Apply only in well ventilated areas.

                    SURFACE Steel:

                    PREPARATION: Abrasive blasting to minimum ISO 8501-1:1988 Standard Sa 21/2 - 3, depending on area of use. Minimum roughness corresponding to Rugotest No. 3, BN11. Oil and grease must be removed by emulsifier cleaning and salts by high pressure hosing prior to blasting. After blasting, clean the surface carefully from abrasive and dust.
                    * - Desert sand not recommended.
                    Concrete: (Dry, fully cured)
                    The concrete must be of good quality and fully cured. Minimum pull-off value should normally be 20 kilopond/cm2 measured after surface preparation.
                    Cracks, crevices and voids must be repaired. The surface must be dry and free from dust, grease, etc. Laitance layer and loose particles must be removed, preferably by abrasive sweeping. The blasted or otherwise treated surfaces must be cleaned from dust, abrasives, etc., preferably by high pressure water hosing, whereupon complete drying must take place.
                    Furthermore, see data sheet for HEMPADUR SEALER 05970 which is used to seal the surface. Necessary filling can then be done with, e.g., HEMPEL’S EPOXY KNIFING FILLER 355SA or with HEMPEL’S EPOXY GROUT 353SA.

                    APPLICATION CONDITIONS: Minimum temperature of material and substrate during application should be 15°C/59°F while curing will proceed down to 10°C/50°F. Clean and dry surface with a temperature above the dew point to avoid condensation.

                    PRECEDING COAT: According to specification.

                    SUBSEQUENT COAT: None or HEMPADUR 15400, HEMPADUR MULTI-STRENGTH 35530 or according to specification.
                    Regards
                    Nick

                    Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by nicktruman View Post
                      hi,
                      The PC is awesome. I am running Windows 7 and its connected to the Sony Xplod by USB to the 2 x 500w amps, so the sound is seriously good.
                      I have MS map point on it which can use the inbuilt GPS.

                      however, i want to run a better satnav and a digital speedo, any ideas? I did try some shareware thuff, but it wasnt much good. I also need to run tuner studio/megatune for the ecu
                      I would recommend Iguidance for the USA / iGO for the UK (if you need let me know).. and maybe run xport (splits your com port so you can share your gps connection). As for software you could always try FreeICE - Free CarPC Software which is completely free :-) and wrote by a very clever guy ;-p . ODB ECU stuff will be added soon as well. You could pull the speed off the GPS, quite easy to decode the nmea stream although it would be a bit laggy. I would tend to try and read a pulse off your gearbox and calc the speed from that.

                      Great build fella, enjoy having a read ever week or so seeing what's been going on.

                      Steve

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by CdRsKuLL View Post
                        I would recommend Iguidance for the USA / iGO for the UK (if you need let me know).. and maybe run xport (splits your com port so you can share your gps connection). As for software you could always try FreeICE - Free CarPC Software which is completely free :-) and wrote by a very clever guy ;-p . ODB ECU stuff will be added soon as well. You could pull the speed off the GPS, quite easy to decode the nmea stream although it would be a bit laggy. I would tend to try and read a pulse off your gearbox and calc the speed from that.

                        Great build fella, enjoy having a read ever week or so seeing what's been going on.

                        Steve
                        Hi Steve
                        Any help you can give with software would be gratefuly appreciated I did try your software but it was riddled with a trojan I can't remember where I got it from. I have a trigger pulsed speedo, but I cant set it up until I can drive the car, I need to drive it a mile then it is calibrated, I have seen a GPS speed for a boat which was kind of OK, but I really want something that I can use to log speed, GPS and video, if at all possible.
                        Regards
                        Nick

                        Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by nicktruman View Post
                          Hi Steve
                          Any help you can give with software would be gratefully appreciated I did try your software but it was riddled with a trojan I can't remember where I got it from. I have a trigger pulsed speedo, but I cant set it up until I can drive the car, I need to drive it a mile then it is calibrated, I have seen a GPS speed for a boat which was kind of OK, but I really want something that I can use to log speed, GPS and video, if at all possible.

                          For tracking you could try gpsgate if it works on win7 (might need to run it in compatibility mode) I think this has a built in tracker type thing. The trojan was most likely a false - positive due to the built in webserver.. I'm now on version 2 which no longer has this so it should be fine. (let me know if its not). I would also like to do a record webcam thing.. so it records the last x hours driving.. then just rewriting over the top.

                          I'm back on with my Murcie at the mo so software is on hold but I do have a couple of other guys working on it. :-)

                          Let me know if you need anything.

                          Steve

                          Comment


                          • Today I cut the door openings at their new place. Getting in and out if the car now is much easier, I think it looks fab! When the resin has cured completely (6 more days) i will drill out the pop rivets and blends it all in..







                            A nice shot of the cosy cockpit

                            Regards
                            Nick

                            Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

                            Comment


                            • Today I started working on the rear engine cover, along with the door I just fixed this bit really depresses me, its wavey, scarred with angle grinder swirls and just looks awful. At one point where the roof meets the engine cover in the middle it was sagging over an inch.

                              Also for some reason the vent holes had been covered over, this would have led to overheating which in the Jag V12 is something I really want to avoid. So I cut the vents open and cut out the middle panel. It is over an inch thick in places and averages 1/2" (13mm) Just taking it off has shaved pounds off of the car!

                              Now I am left with a dilema, I really like this look..





                              But I dont really want to go through the hassle of plexi glass as I think the heat will kill it quickly, but wow it looks cool

                              Here is the bit i cut out



                              So with my repair panel confidence growing I started making replacement panels



                              Which I wll hopefully fit tomorrow. The new opening has also exposed some other issues that need fixing, the plenum throttle linkages are touching the engine cover and getting from the plenums to the turbos is going to be tight!

                              i have also decided to fit, or try and fit a BMW V12 injector rail and high impedance injectors, both engines are about the same size so that should be interesting..
                              Regards
                              Nick

                              Twin turbo V8 Zonda inspired thingy

                              Comment


                              • i love the look of it too, however if youre gonna do this, i think it would be alot nicer if you would make a fake channel from the airscoop end to somewhere under the engine cover. because if the scoop just stopped at the point where it hits the glass, it would look really fake. but about the melting plexiglass, isnt it possible to just cut up a normal windshield in this shape with one of those diamond cutting bits?

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