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phils99 DNA 4Thirty build thread

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  • Looking very nice. I hope your top comes out well.
    My Projects:

    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...y-project.html
    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...-facelift.html
    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...430-build.html

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    • phils thanks for your good info

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      • so, more roof work today

        Pic 1. I trimmed off the excess material at the front and glued it under

        Pic 2. I also trimmed off the rear part and glued it around the 3rd bar to keepit straight when roof is up

        Pic 3. The inner liner sits nicely along the edge now

        Pic 4, I drilled out the holes in the brackets that secure the wires to the roof skin so that I could use nice big rivets
        Attached Files

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        • Pic 1, 2 and 3, I then attached the side wires bracket to the part of the roof that is marked using the large rivets

          Pic 4, I then started on the part where the wire is glued into the fold, this is the chalk mark from when the roof was in place, I then added a lower marked which is where I will glue the wire into

          Pic 5, this shows the wire glued in, as this is contact adhesive, it sticks instantly so that I could try it against the car
          Attached Files

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          • Pic 1, here it is on the car! fits nicely so that the wire pulls the roof into the channel in the frame when the roof closes.

            Pic 2 and 3, I then added all the metal parts removed earlier and also the rubber seal, I then closed the windows and made sure that they pushed into the rubbers to form a seal, the passenger window needed some adjustment to fit correctly.

            Pic 4, I then had a play with my reversing beepers number plate, it worked fine on the chair moving it towards things, so im gunna fit it

            Pic 5, as I have the lift up number plate option at the rear, I firstly fitted the hinges to the reverse beeper number plate, I will fit this to the rear of the car next time
            Attached Files

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            • Pic 1, I then forced the front number plate into a curve and applied some heat with a heat gun, hopefully this will stay curved so that I can fit it tpo the front of the car

              Pic 2 and 3, and just a couple of pics with the roof up and windows closed...
              Attached Files

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              • Looking good, nice job!
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                • managed a couple of hours last night...

                  Pic 1, attached the front number plate with sticky pads

                  Pic 2, I then mounted the rear numberplate/reverse sensors unit on hinges so it lifts up when needed

                  Pic 3, and checked it out with the side lights on

                  Pic 4, I then started the wiring up, I will mount the unit here and the beeper behind the rear storage boxes
                  Attached Files

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                  • got another couple of hours in tonight...concentrated on finishing the reversing beeper number plate holder and the straps to secure the rear window in the hood.

                    Pic 1, as the wire on the reversing beepers is not long enough to get to the rear storage boxes, I decided to mount it here, I will be adding D rubber along the edge of my rear deck, so water shouldnt get at it. I must say, Im impressed with them, as I tested by moving a board nearer to the back of the car and they work just like factory fitted ones....lets see how long they last!

                    Pic 2, Whilst I was in the area, I connected the nice straps I salvaged from the roof strip down to my fake engine to replace the old bit of string I had temporarily used.

                    Pic 3, I then trial fitted the rear storage bins, as I remembered mine had luggage securing straps fitted. I removed the loose strap end and the secured end with the buckle was at the front...result! it was directly underneath where I had the strap from the rear window plate coming through. I was always intending to secure the rear window plate inside the box so that I still had access and this strap will be secured just behind the door meaning that I still have full use of the doors and the storage area. I had to trim about 5mm off the width of the rear window securing straps, as the buckles are narrower..this is the end of the long strap whilst the window wasnt in position...

                    Pic 4, Roof correctly fitted and rear window plate in place, I trimmed all the way up the strap so I can leave it connected when the roof is folded away, I may shorten this when I start to use it, and then used the MR2 buckle to pull it tight....works a treat! much better than the supplied press stud!

                    Pic 5, from a different angle, I need to thread the strap behind the large bar where the storage box door catch is welded on so that it ends up level with the door and allows it to close, other than that, I m pleased with the fit! I can now start assembly of the rear storage bins as the only other wiring left will be down the centre console which I can leave uncovered until I get it all done.
                    Attached Files

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                    • Love the build.

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                      • More work on the interior

                        I started by lining the glove box and then fitted the speakers.

                        Pic 1, started with the glove box disassembled

                        Pic 2, I then lined the bottom with the speaker covering I have

                        Pic 3, then the sides and its all done...easy but real nice!

                        Pic 4, So next its onto the replacement speakers for the doors, after researching on MR2ROC, I chose these as a direct replacement so didnt need another amp..
                        Attached Files

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                        • Pic 1 and 2, I decided to fit the large speakers into the existing speakers mounting, this is done by removing the original speaker and cutting all the plastic away that holds the speaker in and also removing the old cone

                          Pic 3, I then drilled out the bonded in speaker plug as I wont be using it

                          Pic 4, I then ran the speaker wire through the hole to the speaker
                          Attached Files

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                          • Pic 1, so the finished* speaker looks like this, not sure if I need to make iot lower, but I cant tell until I get the door cards back to trial fit them with the speaker in. The tweeters should just fit into the hole I drilled in the door cards nicely!

                            Pic 2, present from Germany arrived today! my new rear tyres, My brother will take them into work on Friday to get them fitted and balanced for free!

                            Pic 3, next I started working on the under dash sub I bought off MR2ROC ages ago....Im not detailing the install here, as a couple of docs are available detailing this, I will just summerise the install. This is the area under the dash where it will fit.
                            Attached Files

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                            • Pic 1, and here is the UD sud box and the JL recomended speaker I bought.

                              Pic 2, I removed the speaker terminal part and soldered on connectors to connect to the speaker internally

                              Pic 3, Like this....

                              Pic 4, you then mount this unit you removed form under the dash onto the sub box
                              Attached Files

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                              • Pic 1, after a bit of bending and twisting of the supplied brackets. I managed to get it to fit nicely, this is what it looks like from underneath

                                Pic 2, and this is what it looks like looking from further out

                                I now have to wire this to the sub amp I have, as this speaker is not powered and will require much more to drive it than the head unit I have can supply..
                                Attached Files

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