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  • 355 spyder build KB

    So here it goes, finally getting underway with my build, had the car for the past 2 years and its been to a couple different shops to get some welding done since i am not a welder. First shop the guy had it for a year and did nothing to it, i finally got fed up and brought it to another shop where all he did was tack a couple pieces on the front that i can attach the front bumper to. Now im at the point i want to shift the cradle back 3 inches and get this project going.

    so im new to this forum and have been having some difficulties.

    1. cant seem to post pictures, they arnt loading
    2. when i read other forums, only some pictures show up, others just appear as little jpeg icons
    3. links to other madmechanic forums appear to go no where

    If anyone can help with the above id appreciate it. plus it will let me post some more pictures on here to make this thread more interesting.

    Kyle

  • #2
    Make sure you're logged in every time. If you're not sometimes pics don't show up. Limit two pics (don't remember byte limit) per post. Most people get a free photobucket account and just select the "image" copy selection (as opposed to the direct link, etc, etc) and paste the link in your post to add pics. Hope that helps!

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    • #3
      even though im logged in I still cant see the pictures

      but i figured out that the pictures i was trying to upload were too large so here we go

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      • #4
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        • #5
          So im at the point where i need to shift the cradle back 3 inches to get the rear tires to line up. I know funnywheels has posted numerous places a basic overview and to reference his build for details. The problem ive got is any of his overview posts, the pictures dont show up for me, regardless of whether im logged in or not, and any link i find to his build thread are broken and dont go anywhere. any help with this would be much appreciated.

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          • #6
            Click image for larger version

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ID:	378600all of my profile settings are sleced so that i can view anything, but this is all i see, this is what it looks like in chrome, i tried firefox and it doesnt even show a thumbnail, internet explorer shows a box with a red x. ive been told to go into my settings an make sure everything is selected, well theres a screen shot of my settings and its still not working

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            • #7
              Not sure what is up with your userid but quite a few of the old threads such as Funnywheels' thread lost some pictures when the forum was moved to new software and upgraded. Several of my old pics in my 355 build are no longer visible as well.

              To move the cradle back without cutting the frame, you will need to do the following:
              1. Remove your cradle from the car
              2. Looking at the rear cradle mounts you will see that there are rubber bushings with the bolt hole through the middle
                1. These rubber bushings need to be removed after you perform items 3 and 4 below

              3. Mark the location of the centre (fore/aft location)of the bolt hole on to the cradle on both sides.
                1. This mark, (want to make sure the marks are at the same spot both sides) will be used as the reference point for moving the mounts the 3" required
                2. make sure the mark is easily seen

              4. Measure the height of the bushings from the top of the cradle rear mount
              5. Remove the rubber bushings from the cradle
              6. The top of the cradle rear mounts will be flat with a large hole in the middle.
              7. You are now going to move the rear cradle mounts forward 3":
                1. You have a choice at this point:
                  1. You can retain the rubber bushings or you can create solid mounts for the cradle (reason for the bushing height measurement)
                  2. If you go with retaining the rubber mounts, you will create an extended platform on the front edge of the cradle mount both side the required amount to move the rubber bushing forward the 3"
                  3. If you are going to create solid mounts, then you will create a platform the required amount for ward and upward from the cradle platform to place the mount hole the 3" forward and raised the amount of the rubber bushing


              8. Once the rear cradle mounts are done, you now move the front cradle mounts.
              9. You have a decision here as well:
                1. Move the front cradle mounts back 3" to keep the cradle front mounts in the same place; or
                2. Extend the front cradle mount arms
                3. As an additional decision, if you made rear solid mounts, you can remove the front rubber cradle mounts and make solid or keep them rubber

              10. If moving the fronts back:
                1. Add metal to the sides of the front cradle mounting plates that are attached to the frame at the bottom of the firewall
                2. make the mount holes 3" rearward from original

              11. If extending the cradle front mounts:
                1. Cut the front cradle arms vertically just behind the front cradle mounting points on cradle
                2. Get 1x3 (or more or less. Can't remember the width and depth of the cradle arm) and weld the front arm extension in to the cradle so that the front cradle mounts are 3" forward but at the exact same height as where it was before cutting
                3. replace the rubber mounts or fill in the hole with a solid mount setup as you prefer. Pretty sure there are still aluminum solid mounts available from some Fiero vendors over on Pennock's Fiero forum or you can weld flat plates over the holes and put a mount tube through the plates and weld those in

              12. The cradle is now ready to be put back into the car.
              13. The one item with moving the cradle back without stretching the frame though, is that you will need to remove the front wall of the rear trunk
                1. This is to accommodate the engine and trans now that they are 3" further back than oem.
                2. The problem with cutting out the front wall of the trunk is that it is used as the shock frame stiffeners for the rear of the car
                3. You will need to make sure that you replace the cross stiffening in some manner when removing the wall.
                4. Some people will cut the lower portion of the trunk wall away but leave the top cross brace that forms the upper portion of the trunk wall.
                5. You can then put some cross bracing from the centre of the top brace to the lower sides of the strut towers
                6. Funnywheels cut the full trunk out and used cross braces in an X pattern across the space where the trunk wall was.



              That is pretty much it for a 3" stretch. Not too hard but think through the full process before starting to cut top make sure you don't get halfway through and get stuck....

              I drew a simple diagram of what you would do and wil upload it to this post shortly.

              BTW: It almost looks like you have an old CK3 body kit. Do you know the original manufacturer?

              Cheers
              Don
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Don; 06-10-2014, 11:49 AM. Reason: Added picture
              308 Ferrari replica
              Prova Countach 5000S

              Comment


              • #8
                This is what I added to mine after cutting out the trunk area. It's 1"x2" channel with round stock cross supports
                Attached Files
                My Projects:

                http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...y-project.html
                http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...-facelift.html
                http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...430-build.html

                Comment


                • #9
                  I left some of the material from the old support and attached the new 1x2 support to it.
                  Attached Files
                  My Projects:

                  http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...y-project.html
                  http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...-facelift.html
                  http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...430-build.html

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    After welding it all in place it is much stronger than the origional sheet metal trunk.
                    Attached Files
                    My Projects:

                    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...y-project.html
                    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...-facelift.html
                    http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/bu...430-build.html

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      awesome, this is exactly what i was looking for! thank you!

                      all the pictures came through so the ones i was looking at must have been lost in the migration somehow.

                      Im not positive on the kit, i think its a ck3 but i got it off ebay from a guy who didnt have time to work on it so im not sure

                      Kyle

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                      • #12
                        finally getting back into the project, the stretch has been done, and I replaced the rear suspension with some coil overs, more pics of that later, but I fitted up some rims I bought along with the body panels to check the fit and i've got a huge offset with the wheels in the back. Im looking at a 6 in offset and im at a loss for how to compensate for this. Ive read numerous posts on spacers vs wide track but most of those only talk about a 3" offset. Why is mine so large, is there an extra step I missed? Ill attach some pictures of what I am talking about tomorrow.

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                        • #13
                          Any ideas?

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                          • #14
                            Since I'm not sure what to do with the wheels, I started work on the doors this weekend. Figured out the door handle situation and decided to cut a hole in the under side and out a fence hinge as a pressure lever to pull on a cable I've connected to the door latch mechanism.

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                            • #15
                              ok lets try this photo thing again, here are the wheels spaces i was talking about





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