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G28 - Simple Mans, Simple REDO of an G28 LP640

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  • Simple Man
    replied
    Originally posted by 20below View Post
    Yes! Always such a transformative thing to see a project all in one color as you say.
    Is Featherfill G2 one of the best coatings to go over raw fiberglass?
    FFG2 works great over raw fiberglass, but the REDO didnt have a lot of raw fiberglass exposed. Most of the FFG2 will end up on the floor during the blocking process.

    from TDS

    Feather Fill G2 is a high solids polyester primer surfacer that is VOC compliant.
    It is specially designed to hold down body repair areas and provide an excellent foundation for any paint system.
    It has excellent adhesion to fiberglass, SMC, body filler and wood surfaces.
    SUBSTRATES:  Fiberglass  SMC  Rigid Plastics  Body Filler or Putty  Epoxy Primer  Self-Etch Primer (extends dry-to-sand time.

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  • 20below
    replied
    Yes! Always such a transformative thing to see a project all in one color as you say.
    Is Featherfill G2 one of the best coatings to go over raw fiberglass?

    Leave a comment:


  • Simple Man
    replied
    Sprayed some FFG2 on the REDO. Nice to see it in one color.

    Black is a great color to ID areas that need some additional work.

    Plan is to block and fix the obvious issues.

    Then spray FFG2, block again then move to 2k primer.

    FYI all the individual pieces are just placed on the car and not mounted









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  • Simple Man
    replied
    Originally posted by AjzRide View Post
    Thanks for the information on tip sizes. I was wondering what tip to try for feather fill with my turbine air HVLP. Looks like that should sand out really flat.
    Glad to help! I sprayed the Featherfill G2, I started sanding the front trunk hatch and the black once sanded turns grey, So there is no need for a guide coat
    Last edited by Simple Man; 08-30-2021, 10:19 AM.

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  • AjzRide
    replied
    Thanks for the information on tip sizes. I was wondering what tip to try for feather fill with my turbine air HVLP. Looks like that should sand out really flat.

    Leave a comment:


  • Simple Man
    replied
    Well I blocked the body as best I could

    Time for some featherfill G2! I used a 5 stage Apollo HVLP. Started with a 2.5 mm tip and a D cap at 5psi and blew out a qtr in about 3 min

    Switched to a 2.0mm tip and C cap and 4 psi. So much better and smooth. Using FFG2 and with no thinning.

    The black shows every flaw.







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  • 20below
    replied
    Fit and finish will be better than the real one!

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  • Simple Man
    replied


    I could at this awhile











    had my son in town, got a couple hours of sanding from him


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  • Simple Man
    replied
    Originally posted by TDW View Post
    Phenomenal build! Have been following for a while....wish I had your patience.....and TIME! Looking fantastic.
    Thanks TDW!

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  • Simple Man
    replied
    Originally posted by 20below View Post

    You and I both know this is WAY cooler than any factory five kit and will be a lot more rewarding to you when finished..........just don't give up or abandon it.
    I do enjoy working on the REDO

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  • TDW
    replied

    Phenomenal build! Have been following for a while....wish I had your patience.....and TIME! Looking fantastic.
    Last edited by TDW; 07-29-2021, 06:00 AM.

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  • 20below
    replied
    Originally posted by Simple Man View Post

    no, should of bought a factory five "kit" lol
    You and I both know this is WAY cooler than any factory five kit and will be a lot more rewarding to you when finished..........just don't give up or abandon it.

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  • Simple Man
    replied
    Dear God! my shoulders ache












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  • Simple Man
    replied
    Originally posted by Don View Post
    Are there any square inches you have not had to adjust or rebuild? Amazing work sir. Enjoying watching your journey. Can so so so relate......

    Cheers
    Don
    no, should of bought a factory five "kit" lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Simple Man
    replied
    Originally posted by 20below View Post
    How do you decide whether it's the door that needs moving or the fender that needs moving or a compromise between the two?
    I always love your creative use of clamps and spreader bars
    The fender is fixed to the body, the door skin is movable. I did add some Duraglass and rage to the fender to bring it level to the door skin

    Leave a comment:

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