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volvo p1800 into ferrari 275gtb spyder: v12, 5spd, tube chassis

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  • #61
    Thank you for the encouragement Eddy! I have drooled over your TR and countach replica for some time. Believe it or not I think my aluminum welds look nicer than steel! Don't know why since aluminum is generally more difficult for most people.

    Comment


    • #62
      Not a whole lot to report here but the pedal box is tacked back into place. I moved it over about 3.5" from the factory location.








      I ordered a few more materials so I can fab the trans mount shortly.

      Comment


      • #63
        Trans mount is done. First I had to make some little brackets with captive nuts





        I welded those to the inside of the main frame rails





        Cut up the factory mustang trans mount I bought and bolted it into place






        boxing in those gaps







        A lick of paint and it's good enough for now.



        Comment


        • #64
          New toy. For $300 w/ the anvils what's there to really lose.

          New toy. For $300 w/ the anvils what's there to really lose.

          Comment


          • #65
            Good to see more metalshapers here. -Vinny
            Remember, there is always next year.

            Comment


            • #66
              A quick question.

              Why is the trans mount crooked? Does the trans mount on the Jag engine really have an angle to it? Obviously the engine and trans are lined up and straight so I guess the Mustang mount isn't quite the same shape as the oem mount so it put it on an angle?

              Regardless. It is in and beautifully fabricated. Was just curious.....

              Cheers
              Don
              308 Ferrari replica
              Prova Countach 5000S

              Comment


              • #67
                Originally posted by Don View Post
                A quick question.

                Why is the trans mount crooked? Does the trans mount on the Jag engine really have an angle to it? Obviously the engine and trans are lined up and straight so I guess the Mustang mount isn't quite the same shape as the oem mount so it put it on an angle?

                Regardless. It is in and beautifully fabricated. Was just curious.....

                Cheers
                Don
                Don,

                The engine and trans are not canted over at all- look at the position of the bellhousing and bellhousing drain hole and how the trans bolts up to it. For whatever reason the crossmember bracket that's cast on the v6 mustang transmission is tilted a considerable amount. It's quite apparent here:

                Comment


                • #68
                  Originally posted by 275NART View Post
                  New toy. For $300 w/ the anvils what's there to really lose.

                  275NART: I'm glad to see you're taking action on the metal shaping front! Before I built my Ewheel, I purchased an Ewheel that looked just like this. Not to be a downer, but I returned it prior to even using it. Maybe the one you purchased will be better but here's a tip. Check the runout (i.e. roundness) on the anvils. If they're not perfectly circular (they have .001 or more runout) then you most likely won't get acceptable results no matter what you do. The anvils on the Ewheel I returned weren't even close. Given you're new to metal shaping and if you're like me, you'll likely think it's you and not the equipment. With these cheap, Chinese made Ewheels, it's really a crap shoot.

                  The other thing you'll find from this Ewheel is the frame will flex in both vertical and horizontal directions. The tubing size is not large enough to prevent this. You can overcome this shortcoming by welding on support bracing. But if the anvils aren't round then strengthening the frame won't matter, it will actually make it worse because now the frame won't flex for the anvil high side and it will result in uneven thinning in the metal you're shaping. But if the anvils are round, you should be able to at least get feel for metal shaping, then you can elect to either invest in making this frame stronger or get a better Ewheel.

                  The other metal shaping tool you'll need to get started is a shrinker/stretcher. I'd suggest a "Lancaster" style because they do a good job and are inexpensive. https://www.tinmantech.com/html/lanc..._stretcher.php I'd also recommend the stipple finished jaws for aluminum but the standard ones are OK too. You can find less expensive sources for a Lancaster shrinker but TM Tech is my go to place for metal shaping tools. These only shrink on the edges but you'll find the majority of shrinking you'll do is on the edge.

                  I wish you the best on metal shaping!
                  Joel Heinke
                  Be original; don't be afraid of being bold!

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Must be a torque correction thing. The work looks great. Looking forward to more updates.

                    Cheers
                    Don
                    308 Ferrari replica
                    Prova Countach 5000S

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by C5GTO View Post
                      275NART: I'm glad to see you're taking action on the metal shaping front! Before I built my Ewheel, I purchased an Ewheel that looked just like this. Not to be a downer, but I returned it prior to even using it. Maybe the one you purchased will be better but here's a tip. Check the runout (i.e. roundness) on the anvils. If they're not perfectly circular (they have .001 or more runout) then you most likely won't get acceptable results no matter what you do. The anvils on the Ewheel I returned weren't even close. Given you're new to metal shaping and if you're like me, you'll likely think it's you and not the equipment. With these cheap, Chinese made Ewheels, it's really a crap shoot.

                      The other thing you'll find from this Ewheel is the frame will flex in both vertical and horizontal directions. The tubing size is not large enough to prevent this. You can overcome this shortcoming by welding on support bracing. But if the anvils aren't round then strengthening the frame won't matter, it will actually make it worse because now the frame won't flex for the anvil high side and it will result in uneven thinning in the metal you're shaping. But if the anvils are round, you should be able to at least get feel for metal shaping, then you can elect to either invest in making this frame stronger or get a better Ewheel.

                      The other metal shaping tool you'll need to get started is a shrinker/stretcher. I'd suggest a "Lancaster" style because they do a good job and are inexpensive. https://www.tinmantech.com/html/lanc..._stretcher.php I'd also recommend the stipple finished jaws for aluminum but the standard ones are OK too. You can find less expensive sources for a Lancaster shrinker but TM Tech is my go to place for metal shaping tools. These only shrink on the edges but you'll find the majority of shrinking you'll do is on the edge.

                      I wish you the best on metal shaping!
                      Thanks for the Tips Joel

                      I ordered a rubber band last week and it has already arrived. The upper wheel is nice and true but a few of the lower anvils are noticeably out of round a few thousandths. I may have a machinist friend true them up for me. I bought a shrinker stretcher a while back because I knew I'd need them to build the door jambs. I have a bench top metal brake too.

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Don View Post
                        Must be a torque correction thing. The work looks great. Looking forward to more updates.

                        Cheers
                        Don
                        That's the only thing I can think of. Still it's a lot of angle!

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Hi 275Nart. I haven't been on the forum for a long time and just took a quick look and spotted your build. Wow. This is excellent. Your attention to detail and quality of work is really good. So looking forward to seeing future progress. Cheers Kevin
                          [URL="http://www.carbodybucks.co.za"]www.carbodybucks.co.za[/URL]

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Oh wow 275Nart,this is beautiful.........nice work.

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Thank you both Kevin and Flatfourfan!

                              I'm back from a hiatus with a much needed update. Firewall and tunnel construction



                              Wire wheeled the floor pans while I was in there




                              I made the tunnel area purposefully high to make the stabbing the engine in easier.


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                              • #75


                                tight fit






                                To finish the firewall I'm still unsure if I want to seam weld and dress all the welds or just tack it every inch or so and neatly mask and seam seal.

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