Ferrari 288 GTO - BUILD - Project

[Don]

As I think about it, one question for everyone. This is a crate engine and I only put in castrol oil in it to get everything lubed up to begin with. Should I be draining the reg oil and putting in break in oil into it?? I think I probably should before I run it for any length while I run the tuner diagnostics?

Thoughts?
Don

[Don]

Been plugging away on the car for the past few weeks when time permits. I am in the middle of the COVID-19 preparations at my day job so there has not been a lot of time to do much else...

What I have been doing though is to get the exhaust pipes run out to the back so I can start the engine again (with cooling this time) so I can see how it is running and get some data out of the ECM to check on mapping. It was running very rich in the few seconds I started the first time so want some direction out the garage before starting again..... Getting some plastic tubing and run it under the slightly open garage door so I don't send my wife out the front door again from gassing us out.... Wasn't well received the last time... As with everything I touch on this car, I was not happy with how the exhaust ran from the muffler, out the outside of the trunk and back in to the exhaust holes under the rear bumper. The pipes used (I think they are Rodney Dickman models) need the trunk to be dented in at the back bottom corners and I am not fussed on that. The one side was already done so I left it but the passenger side, I had replaced the rotted out trunk side wall so now I have interference with the pipe. I think I will cut the routing down a bit and make it run a bit cleaner and a bit closer to the trunk side wall as well so it doesn't sit so far out the side of the car under the truck area. i already moved the passenger side in about 1.5" and it looks much better. More to come with pics once I get it all tacked back together in the shape I am happy with.

Also printed out a fan connector plug I designed since I am sitting in front of the computer so much these days. Took about an hour to design in Fusion360 last evening and then started up the 3d printer and that took about 45 minutes. Turned out well as a prototype and I have a couple things to adjust and then print a final copy to be ready to use in the HVAC unit for Wayne. Of course since I am sort of locked down up here, I can't go out and get connector blades to add those in to show it will work. There will be five blades coning out of the smaller raised section which will connect directly into the wiring connector under the dash. Also need to clean out the recessed pieces where the blades will go into. Didn't bother with the prototype as I was looking for connector fit overall.

Couple quick pics to show the shape. Will take a pic once it is in final and fitted to the wiring harness in the car.

Cheers
Don

[Rusin]

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[Rusin]

hi best cars

[FerrariXXXman]

Hey Don! Much progress you have gained. I recently used an Uno for another project I was working on. It had a couple different modes and it worked well for what I was doing (traffic light sequencer). 3 years ago, I tore the interior out of the 512TR and had some roadblocks, the HVAC controller being one of them. I remember I have photos a few years ago where MacGyver took a multi-gang rotary switch and made that work. There has got to be an easier way as the truth table for the switching was not that complex. Anything you can share with me would be most appreciated, I have a YouTube channel where I am working on some other cars, and plan to get back on this one shortly. Again, thank you for the convertible top header for the 355 I was working on. I'll never forget how you removed that on your car and graciously sent it to me so I could finish. Good luck on your progress.

[Don]

I hope everyone is staying safe in these very unusual times. Keeping me busy at work(actually from home but working....) for sure.

Ferrarixxxman. Drop me a pm or email me and I can show you some stuff we have been doing for the Fiero HVAC.

A bit more progress last night. Finally able to take some time in the garage and get the exhaust pipes tacked up and some mounts put in place. Ran out of TIG gas so need to wait until I can go out for less priority items..... I am happy with what I have so far though.

[Don]

Quick update.

Finished the exhaust pipes so they are all buttoned up.

Lately, been fighting the engine really running rough and backfiring and very poor throttle response. In fact almost none... Figure I have a pretty good vacuum leak I have been tracking down. Thankfully I don't have too many vac lines on the car so been working on one after the other to check for leaks and then figuring our how to seal. I think I am down to two vac lines left. Brake boost and fuel vapor canister. Will do those tomorrow night as the car is not quiet so neighbours have been out looking to see who is shooting off the gun in the cul-de-sac.... I think I might been to add in some resonators as well as this exhaust is kind of obnoxious......

Also rebuilt the axles as I can't get any up in Canada right now without a bunch of money and 2-3 weeks wait time.... They were not bad shape so just cleaned them all up and added in new grease and put them back together. Also rebuilt the rear trailing arms with new ends etc.

So in the end, it runs, poorly still but it runs and I am narrowing down the issues. Again, this thing is loud....

More to come as I track down the culprits.

Cheers
Don

[Don]

Another big day. I found out my issue with the engine. I could not get the engine to run correctly at all and was running out of options to check. I thought I was looking at a huge vacuum leak or maybe even the timing belt jumped a tooth. As it turns out the crank sensor was wired backwards. I found another fellow that swapped a DOHC and he had spent almost a year tracking down a poor running engine. In the end he had read that someone else had swapped the wires and fixed the same issue. I thought it couldn't hurt and did the same thing. Engine started up no problem and spun into a nice idle no issues.... Even the manuals had it the other way so must be a fairly common thing??

Anyway, engine running well now so carry on with putting it all back together now.

Cheers

[Dangerrous]

Must be a relief to track down a simple, but evidently hidden problem. I'm not familiar with the 3.4 DOHC, can you interigate the engine ecu for fault codes and tuning?
Darren

[Bloozberry]

As it turns out the crank sensor was wired backwards.

Doesn't it feel great to solve a problem like that?

I recently worked on a guy's Fiero that has a 350 TPI that would crank but wouldn't start... the ECM wouldn't enter into self diagnostic mode with the ALDL grounded so I knew the ECM was toast. Easy fix right? Checked every wire for proper end-to-end connections, just in case, and replaced the ECM, started it up just fine, then got a code for a fried MAF. No biggie. Replaced the MAF and the engine purred like a kitten until I goosed the gas. It died and would crank but wouldn't start again, only to find the ECM and MAF were once again fried. It was a Catch 22: I needed to have functioning electronics to run the engine to troubleshoot an electrical problem, but each time I ran the engine, it burned out the electronics.

After days of re-checking the wiring, I finally rationalized that it had to be that the voltage regulator in the alternator. The voltage spiked at anything above idle RPM, which then fried the ECM and MAF. It took 2 ECM's, 2 MAF's, and an alternator to figure it out. So consider yourself lucky!

[Don]

Wow Dave that would have put me out. Would have lit a match and moved on.... was close on this one as well. So close but everything is a struggle to get figured out. I have been 2 weeks away from being done for 5 years now..... Found the problem 2 weeks to get a part and put it in and I am good, oh no, found the next item that needs correcting....etc. etc. This car will be FULLY rebuilt and pretty much new with nothing original except maybe the tub and interior plastic.....

Found the battery is not being charged right now but I can work that out as I had changed out the plug so might not have the exciter on the correct pin.

Dangerous, I use TunerPro RT and have an ALDL connector into the ECM.

Cheers

[Don]

A question for all you wiring guys. I don't seem to have charging working so took a pic of the wiring on the alt and then a pic from the net. I was told by someone that the charge light on the dash comes from F (which is also I in some pics) and the switched power on to L. I took a pic of my wiring and labeled the plug the way THINK it is supposed to be. Hard to tell really as I am looking up to the plug on the alt but not sure if the image would translate the way I have labeled it.

Looking at several pics online, I am pretty sure I have the power wired up wrong. I added an image and it says to put the power to P not L. Does that sound right to everyone that knows more about wiring than me...?

Thanks
Don

My alternator wiring now


Net image.

[Don]

Once I have the alt confirmed, I will be dropping the engine one last time to allow more access into the engine bay to complete all the last items needed so I can then spray in the Lizard skin ceramic heat shield and then paint and put the engine back in for the last time.

While being easily distracted from my fun wiring, I am also carrying on working on engine bay finalizing and cleaning up. Spent a bit of time the last couple days doing a heat shield to cover up the wiring and fuel gear. The original, if I could find it..... would probably need to be cut up and bump outs put n so I decided to continue to learn how to do more metal working. It is fun but messy and time consuming..... I still have one more bump out to do to cover up the a/c lines but it was getting late so can't grind, hammer and weld... Tomorrow.

[jb1]

Pin L goes to B3 of c500 , you can run pin B to the junction post for voltage sense.. but L is only one required

[Don]

Thanks again JB1. I looked again tonight and what I believe to be L is hooked into C500 B3 and I cut the other wire that I had going to another wire. I guess I should track that t=one down now to make sure I have not done something else.... Car started right up and settled into a very nice idle. Using TunerPro RT, I saw that the battery sat right at 12 v and jumped 12.1 - 12.2 back to 12 etc. Doesn't do the 13-14 volt charge that I am used to on alternators though.

I also tested by removing the power cable from the battery while running and the car immediately died. I think I am still tracking charging issues if that happens am I not? Should it stay running if I disconnect the battery from the emerg terminal??

Off to do some searching. Otherwise, I think the car is ready to pull the engine again for the last time and finish off the engine bay and put this back together forever.... Think I will pull the engine tomorrow. I still have two days off so hope to have a bunch done tomorrow and Monday.

Cheers
Don