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quick easy fiberglass question

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  • #16
    Originally posted by TDW View Post
    Hey! That looks great. Glad it worked so well for, as I said initially, there are ways to do it. You did good!

    I guess my curiosity is getting the better of me though, I have to ask, if you knew you were going to be doing body paint work (to add the flares to the back) why the concern over not messing up the paint? I'm guessing you want to only paint that which is absolutely necessary and plan on spot painting and color matching, which can also be a nightmare.

    My take on your latest question is to grind down to bare glass where you want to add the flare, going out at least an inch or two beyond the edge of your new flare. Then use whatever bonding method you're comfortable will get varied opinions on this I'm sure. Some will say use resin and matte, some will say panel bond (such as 3M8115 or the like) some will say Vette panel adhesive, personally, I would use resin and matte. I guess the main point is, I wouldn't cut out the existing well, but rather add the new flare to what's there. You'll probably also get varied responses on that, I'm just saying what I would do.

    Finishing the seam is kind of like doing a weld with metal. You will have a "valley" naturally between the edge of the new flare and the body, but it can be made slightly deeper, then like a weld, you fill the valley back up with matte and resin till it's blended. Finish off with your favorite filler, (I like "resin jelly", then a two part polyester glazing putty for final finishing), prime, see where you're at, repeat if required till you're satisfied with how it looks/feels, then paint. This takes for granted there will be lots of sanding.

    I'm sure you'll get advise from others, so do what you feel will work for you. Post your results with pictures, and for the record, I agree it is a much better look, course you know you're gonna have to get wider rims and tires.....right? I suppose you could run spacers, but why go to all that trouble to remain "stock"?
    The car has an amazing paint job already and i just didn't want to mess it up. I've painted quite a few cars in my day and this one was done by someone who really knew how to paint. its a very pretty metallic green(not the original paint) and its flawless when its clean and in the sunlight.

    I do plan on new rims and tires.. as fat as i can get under there lol but wont i need to at least trim some of the old wheel well up so the tires dont rub?

    Thanks for the input on how to bond these together. this will be a first for me and any advice is much appreciated. i will post pics up as i make progress. parts are hardening up right now so probably tomorrow i will have some more pics.


    • #17
      It will depend on a few different factors. If your inner liners go straight across from the bottom of the well lip, then you could probably leave the original lip alone. I'm not sure how it's configured on the C4. If on the other hand, your inner liner goes up into the well opening, then yea, you are probably going to have to cut away some of the original to fit the larger set up in there. You sure don't want your new tires hitting when you go over a bump!

      I'm sure there will be others before too long that will give you their take on things, and some/one of them may be more familiar with the C4 wells than me. I was just trying to give you my take on attaching the new flares to the body. It's gonna be a judgement call (yours) as to whether or not to cut out the stock well. I've seen it done both ways, and again, it depends of several factors.

      I think it would probably turn out better, if you're comfortable with doing the body work, to eliminate the original configuration all together, and make the new flare appear stock.

      Either way, looking forward to seeing how it turns out. You handled the mold making aspect like a pro, so I'd guess you're not afraid to tackle whatever you need to, to make it turn out the way you envisioned it.

      Don't forget the pics!


      • #18
        Thanks. I just went out and checked on the parts and added another layer of matt. Which brings it to three layers of chopped. I figure that should be strong enough. Anyway hopefully tomorrow afternoon ill have them pulled and some pics.


        • #19
          well plan B. foam and make a mold. don't cringe at the pics. that was just me shaving some off to START the shaping. so please give me some ideas. I want either a con-caved or con-vexed look. i don't really care for the straight angle look. if you have an idea..... i'm open to it. i just want something that looks mature and mean.

          as far as the molds i made from the front.... ya idiot me didn't make them thick enough so when i pulled my parts from them they were extremely warped because the weight made them relax when i laid them up... lesson learned.


          • #20
            Don't get frustrated, progress has always been made by one step forward, two back.

            A one-time use mold can be thinner than a "production" mold, but it still has to be able to hold it's shape, and stay intact. Again, there are different ways to accomplish both. You will get much better/more information by going to this site and looking around in the learning center: Fibre Glast Developments Corp. | Fiberglass & Composite Materials Just about anything you want to know about fiberglass, mold making and/or procedure can be found there.

            This was part of why the suggestion to go get a junk yard part to play with was made. Not saying it can't be done any other way, but if you are "experimenting" and seeing what works and what doesn't, it's usually better to do it on/with something that you don't care so much about.

            As for the shape of your flare, a trip to the j/y may help with that too. Just walking around looking at different well shapes, sizes and configurations, could lead you to exactly what you have in mind. That's not to say that you can't end up with it by the foam, shape, cover, mold process, many people have done it over the years. Just take your time, plan your moves ahead of time, and follow the instructions for the products you use.

            I was taught that "industry standard" as far as thickness (of a PART...NOT a mold) is 3 and 1/2 layers of ounce and a half matte, with the half layer being either "actual" 3/4oz. or literally ounce and 1/2 pulled apart like separating plys of a tissue. A mold (production mold that you plan to use for multiple pulls-could be hundred or more) is usually around 10 layers or more, and/or built up/reinforced with core matte and/or stabilizer boards/rods/bars of some kind to keep it from warping/twisting or otherwise loosing it's shape in any way. Tooling gel coat is also used for the pulling surface in most molds, as it withstands much higher temps, and holds up longer than regular gel coat.

            At any rate, you can read all that stuff on the fiberglast site if you care to.

            Fiberglass is both easy and hard to work with. It's very forgiving as far as being able to alter/tweak something that you don't like or isn't "right", it's hard in the sense that you do have to follow certain "rules" to have things work right, and it can be messy, smelly, itchy, get sh**t all over your shop and self, etc., but hot rodders and customizers have been using it for decades to make things that didn't exist anywhere else, and turn an idea into a reality.

            Look at the site, keep plugging at it, and keep posting updates!


            • #21
              Originally posted by TDW View Post
              Don't get frustrated, progress has always been made by one step forward, two back.
              Wait, won't that result in one step back?



              • #22
                Guess I didn't have the sarcasm mode turned up high it's supposed to be two steps forward and one back?.................yea.............we'll go with that.

                Ok, two steps forward and one back. That should leave you a step ahead in the long run, right?

                [sarcasm]Didn't mean to cornfuse anybody![/sarcasm]

                Here's some "inspiration" for you too...check out this guy's use of foam-glass and ingenuity:

                5.4L Twin Turbo V12 Choptop Fiero (Lots of pics) - Pennock's Fiero Forum

                Two steps forward, one step back....two steps forward, one step back...two steps forward, one step back......gotta remember that!


                • #23
                  so my parts came out a lot better this time but i wanted to see what i could do with clay... ya i'm not that good lol so i put the parts i made from the front fender on and blended (very roughly clean up will come on the finished parts) the edges and shaped it the best i could... please be honest and give advice, criticism, suggestions etc.


                  • #24
                    You should be good with a good coat of pva and pre filling in and voids with kids play clay, so the fiberglass doesn't get into the cracks and adheres too well to get it off easily. PVA is magic if used right .

                    My 2 cents. Done it dozens of times.



                    • #25
                      Yup the pva worked great.


                      • #26
                        just a quick update.
                        Last edited by camaroman; 08-30-2014, 08:20 PM.


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