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Next project: the wheel studs

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  • Next project: the wheel studs

    Another reason NOT to buy from Tony Sousa:
    After completing the repairs on the rear left of my car I decided to check out the rear right, only to find out that there were only two full wheel studs left on the hub! Luckily one can purchase wheel studs for only a few dollars each... still an annoyance never the less.

    I was emailed these instructions for replacing the studs by jelly2m8 of pennock's fiero forum ( . Maybe they'll help someone else out in the future.

    From: jelly2m8
    "Hey dude,

    Heres the easiest/ quickest/ cheapest way to fix that broken stud. If ya listen to those guys on the chat, they'll have you removing the engine to fix it....;p

    Go to you local parts store and buy a wheel stud for the rear of your Fiero, there are pretty common, should'nt be more than 2 or 3 bucks. Also get a regular lug nut ,that will fit on the stud and 3 or 4 big washers that will pass over the treads of the stud., you will use this for installation. You may want a new factory style nut to replace the one from the broken stud also.

    Jack up the problem side only, leave the other tire on the ground.

    Remove the offending wheel, brake caliper, and brake rotor from the affected area. ( sounds like an operation huh?...;p)

    Take a big hammer, and give the broken stud a wack, straight back. It will fall out of the face of the hub.

    now your ready for install.

    Put you transmission in neutral.

    Take the new stud and feed it through the face of the hub, from the backside. You might need to turn the hub to a certain area in order to get enough clearance to get the stud through the hole. There is a spot on the inner part of the hub, that will give you the clearance needed. Sorry I can't remember where exactly the spot is without looking at one. It is there, just turn the face of the hub you will find it.

    you can only push the stud through untill it reaches the splines on the stud. Put the car back in gear, or park. take the 3 or 4 big washers and slide them over the new stud, then take the regular style lug nut and tread it on backwards so that the taper on it is facing out. keep screwing the lug
    nut on the stud, it will pull the new stud through the face of the hub, the tighter it gets. You will be able to see when the back edge of the stub seats firmly on the back side of the flange. You will also feel the lug nut starting to turn hard. Stop when you feel this.

    Remove the lug nut and washers. The new stud is now installed.

    the rotor , caliper and wheel, you are ready to rock.
    Make sure you torque the wheel studs to 100 ft/lbs.

    Also if the car is a manual transmission, you may need to keep the hub from turning, use a breaker bar, or something similar, and stick it between two other studs, with one end on the floor, or you can stick a socket extension or something similar through one of the holes through the face of the
    flange on the hub. and let it rest against the brake bracket, or the spindle which the strut attaches to.

    Good luck, its really pretty easy once you get at it"

  • #2
    Re: Next project: the wheel studs

    Went to Canadian tire tonight to get the parts, Total cost: about $5.00 CAN. The part numbers needed are:
    From the Auto Parts Counter:
    13-7236-8 - The screw part
    13-7221-2 - The Nut for the screw
    From the hardware section
    61-2592-2 - The Washers

    Will update you all tomorrow with how it goes.


    • #3
      Re: Next project: the wheel studs

      Well, have been working for the last hour to get these studs out - They won't budge! Tried pentration oil, tried a sledge, tried using a dremel to saw a straight line through them and then use a wedge in that straight line. I'm thinking the only thing left to try is saw off the heads of them and knock em out that way. Any suggestions?


      • #4
        Re: Next project: the wheel studs

        Have you tried heat? Pick up a butane? torch at
        "crappy tire" -) for a few bucks ... does wonders in
        the removal department.
        Visit My KitCarOnLine Blog<br /> and Links Site at


        • #5
          Re: Next project: the wheel studs

          Ari. they should come out with a sledge. A good hard direct hit with a ball peen hammer usually moves them. If not, heat around the stud.
          So he sold you a car with 2 wheel studs on one wheel?!!!! Was it a road ready car or a fixxer upper?
          And the joke is,<br />when he awoke his,<br />body was covered in Coke fizz !


          • #6
            Re: Next project: the wheel studs

            It was SUPPOSED to be a road ready car! I know I paid the price of a Road ready car...

            I got the studs out by dremeling around the ends and then using lubricant and a sledge hammer. Here's a pic of the before and after:

            Now that the axle and studs have been fixed I can roll the car out of my garage and let it run a little. It smoked a lot at first, and idled at 2500 RPM, moving up to 3000RPM as it heated up. After about 3 minutes there was no smoke at all coming out of it.

            Next on my list: Drill out and replace rubber brake lines (rusted in place), Re-Install all parking brake parts (He never bothered hooking some of them together), install rear calipers.(All of which I paid him to do and he never did). Then figure out what exactly is going on with the engine.

            Gona have an tiring week ahead of me...


            • #7
              Re: Next project: the wheel studs


              Next time(?) try an air hammer. All my studs came out in seconds using one.

              (another Ontario Kit Car builder)
              John Good
              <br />Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
              <br />Canada


              • #8
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