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  • Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

    Hello All,

    Every few months I "shoot out a post" looking for a set of 308 / 328 vents / louvers for the sail panels. I've been trying to make a metal set or have some custom metal made to update my 308 and my original ones are in are great shape so I don't want to hack them up.

    If anyone has a set laying around, let me know. Even some minor damage is fine since I'm going to try to carefully cut them apart.

    I'm not in a "huge rush" but the V8 is finished and on the cradle with the Getrag and my axles just arrived so with a little luck, I'll have the car moving soon and be ready to install the custom interior and get her back on the road.
    Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
    Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

  • #2
    Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

    Originally posted by kit4me
    Hello All,

    Every few months I "shoot out a post" looking for a set of 308 / 328 vents / louvers for the sail panels. I've been trying to make a metal set or have some custom metal made to update my 308 and my original ones are in are great shape so I don't want to hack them up.

    If anyone has a set laying around, let me know. Even some minor damage is fine since I'm going to try to carefully cut them apart.

    I'm not in a "huge rush" but the V8 is finished and on the cradle with the Getrag and my axles just arrived so with a little luck, I'll have the car moving soon and be ready to install the custom interior and get her back on the road.
    Did you do an Archie kit? I have been kicing it around a little since that particular set up has the bugs worked out. I must be crazy though, the 3800 is running just fine.
    If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

      Hey Dave,

      Hope all is well.

      I've done 2 Archie Kits in the past. I feel that the quality of his kit is really second to none. 1 was an auto and one was a manual.

      (This current one is a manual as well but it's kind of a "Hybrid").

      The only problems I've ever had with the Archie Manual Kit were some starter problems. (going through starter drive gears / shimming quite a bit etc). It may have been just me but there are so many poor quality chevy gear reduction starters out there, it just seems that quite a few people have "issues" with the starters on the manual trans conversions (at least at the time I did mine there were).


      I didn't want to go through all of the "drama" with swapping out starters again so all of my current (3rd) swap is an Archie Kit with the exception of a Street Dreams Engine to Tranny adapter plate (which has the pre-drilled starter holes and uses a 80's style Nissan 280ZX gear reduction starter). The starter is used in quite a few applications from the Nissan trucks, 280 Z's etc. I think there is a difference in the flywheel as well if I remember correctly but that may be because I'm using a 1988 1 piece rear main seal block.

      I really like the way the Nissan starter aligns into the adapter plate. The bore in the engine plate mates up with the boss on the starter nose and you simply bolt it on. No shimming, no removing or rotating the starter housing / no paperclip adjustment of the drive gear depth etc. The alignment is dead on and the Nissan starters have a great track record for longevity (even the aftermarket ones). The price is comparable with a no-name gear reduction starter as well and like a chevy part, can be bought just about anywhere.

      Everything else is "all Archie" and I hope to have it purring along in the next few weeks.


      Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
      Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

        Hey Brian, how are you doing?? Glad to hear that your project is coming along...I can't wait to see the finished product....Please post some photos if you have time.

        I'm assuming you are looking for a set of MERA 308 (replica) quarter side louvers, right?? Not the "real" Ferrari 308 qt. window vents, right?? It just so happens that the real 308 louvers are SMALLER than the MERA 308 replica qt. louvers plus they have a visible curve and a hole for a key lock.

        I was wondering why you want to fabricate your qt. louvers out of metal....It seems like a lot of work to fabricate each louver opening considering that the real Ferrari 308 qt. louvers are PLASTIC! I'm not trying to be critical of your idea - I'm simply just wondering!

        There is a member in this forum who's offering MERA-style qt. window louvers made out of fiberglass for $75 (each louver)...I still have his email if you're looking for an xtra louver set unless of course someone else can provide them for free (it's the season of giving after all )

        Well enjoy the Holidays with your family and keep us posted on your progress.

        Vasilis K.
        Life is too short to be driving Hondas!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents



          Hey Vk,

          Hope all is well. The 308 is coming along pretty well. I saw a set of OEM side vents at a swap meet many years ago but as you mentioned, they are a bit smaller than the replica vents and have that slight curve to them..

          I'm actually trying to construct a frame and real glass since my car is a GTB so I thought fabrication of a small vent would be a bit easier in metal but I'll most likely end up using fiberglass / plastic. I did do a prototype of a plexiglass side window but may have custom glass made (if I feel the need).

          If I would have had the forethought , I would have "adjusted" my design when I had the metal vent material made up for the Hood Vent. They did a really good job on them but they are a bit deep (and thick) for the side vents.

          I'll be posting some progress pics as soon as I'm a bit further along. I'm getting ready to cut out the fake hood vents now to install the metal vents. It's getting there.

          What have you been up to??

          Brian
          Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
          Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

            Originally posted by kit4me
            Hey Dave,

            Hope all is well.

            I've done 2 Archie Kits in the past. I feel that the quality of his kit is really second to none. 1 was an auto and one was a manual.

            (This current one is a manual as well but it's kind of a "Hybrid").

            The only problems I've ever had with the Archie Manual Kit were some starter problems. (going through starter drive gears / shimming quite a bit etc). It may have been just me but there are so many poor quality chevy gear reduction starters out there, it just seems that quite a few people have "issues" with the starters on the manual trans conversions (at least at the time I did mine there were).


            I didn't want to go through all of the "drama" with swapping out starters again so all of my current (3rd) swap is an Archie Kit with the exception of a Street Dreams Engine to Tranny adapter plate (which has the pre-drilled starter holes and uses a 80's style Nissan 280ZX gear reduction starter). The starter is used in quite a few applications from the Nissan trucks, 280 Z's etc. I think there is a difference in the flywheel as well if I remember correctly but that may be because I'm using a 1988 1 piece rear main seal block.

            I really like the way the Nissan starter aligns into the adapter plate. The bore in the engine plate mates up with the boss on the starter nose and you simply bolt it on. No shimming, no removing or rotating the starter housing / no paperclip adjustment of the drive gear depth etc. The alignment is dead on and the Nissan starters have a great track record for longevity (even the aftermarket ones). The price is comparable with a no-name gear reduction starter as well and like a chevy part, can be bought just about anywhere.

            Everything else is "all Archie" and I hope to have it purring along in the next few weeks.
            What Archie build kit do you use? I would just like to pick up some of the pieces if that can be done that way.

            Dave
            If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

              Hey Dave,

              I used the Street Dreams engine / Trans Adapter and the Flywheel from them as well.

              With the street dreams kit, you can use a "standard" 9-1/8" Fiero / Chevy S-10 etc Pressure Plate / Clutch etc. I've used the Centerforce Dual Friction on my last one and had great results. Many (as I'm sure you'll agree) have been using the Spec III clutches and if I have any issues, I will go with that at some point.

              I'm a pretty easy driver and the CF DF clutches have held up well for me so I went with what I was familiar with. (Archie kits use a custom Centerforce DF Clutch designed specific for his kits. He stands behind the CF Clutches and I've had good luck with them. - The Archie Clutch will not work with the street dreams adapter but a standard CF DF clutch will.)

              I used the Archie Alternator adapter, Archie Front Engine Mount and Archie Balancer Pulley as well.

              I used the Archie Water pump drive on my last swap but on this swap I've decided to try an electric water pump. I've had no problems with the Archie Water Pump Drive. It's a nice setup. (At the time of my last swap, there wasn't much in the way of suitable electric pumps).

              The stock Fiero Manual axles are used and I decided to go with the stock rubber trans mounts since I didn't have any issues with them on my last swap. I do also have a set of Poly Bushings should I decide to swap them in at some point.

              I also (even though some don't) am using the Archie Engine Torque strut like he suggests.

              In addition, I pulled a dogbone from a late 80's grand prix to fabricate a rear dogbone to be used in addition with the stock front dogbone (4cyl Dogbone) which I will fabricate mounts for on the engine to reduce movement a little bit. This will let me "loosen" the engine strut just a bit and allow a slight bit of engine movement through the rubber dogbone (or poly) bushings so the car is not "vibrating" as much.

              I've found that with the engine strut very tight and the solid engine mount in front that you get some "harmonics" / vibration in the passenger area so I'm experimenting with some dogbones for a firm mounting but with a little more isolation of the engine and chassis. Again, Just a personal project of mine.

              Since the front engine mount is welded to the K-member, some have experienced cracking of the mount since the trans mounts are poly / rubber and the engine mount is welded.

              Some will mount the entire assembly solid but my first one was like that and it was way too rough even with rubber cradle mounts. If it was a track car, I may go "solid" all the way but I'm fine with rubber or Poly trans mounts.

              So just to recap, I used:

              Archie Front Engine Mount
              Archie Alternator and A/C Mount
              Archie Engine Strut
              Archie Balancer / Pulley

              Poly Cradle Bushings (or Aluminum if you prefer)
              Stock Fiero Rubber (or Poly if you prefer) trans mounts
              Stock Fiero 4cyl Dogbone and Grand Prix Dogbone (6cyl) - for my particular setup - not required..
              Stock Fiero Axles (for the manual swap anyway)

              Street Dreams Engine to Getrag Adapter
              Street Dreams Custom Flywheel
              Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch or Spec III for Fiero or S-10 / or same applications
              Nissan 280Z Stock Gear Reduction Starter (specs on Street Dreams site) - Let me know if you need Part#

              Oil Filter relocation kit as suggested by Archie.

              ** I used a Summit Racing Oil Filter Adapter Kit and a custom Trans-Dapt oil filter adapter / Bypass and a few readily available fittings do do mine and it's a very clean installation. Let me know and I'll get you part numbers.

              You'll also need some "off the shelf stuff" like the usual Thermostat housing , hoses etc.

              Archie mentions it in his video and I've done it on my last Manual swap regarding the use of a "snubber" to prevent movement of the trans. Not needed but I thought he was going to incorporate this into his later swaps. In my case, I'm fabricating a small mount for a standard traction bar snubber and I'll post pics of that and the Dogbone when I'm done. Again, both not really "necessities".

              I'll update the post if I've forgotten anything.

              Brian

              Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
              Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                Brian:

                Thanks for outlining what I need and why I need it. I am currently using the poly mounts from West Coast Fiero’s, and external oil filter with dual oil coolers, an Archie type torque strut and a LUK clutch package on my 3800 conversion. Unfortunately I installed the torque strut too late. I twisted the engine while shifting hard and the mounting tabs broke off of the transaxle. I have a bad 3rg gear syncro as well so I thought while I have it out why not have a V8? I am thinking about using a warmed over 350 with a 4 barrel carb and block hugger headers.

                Dave
                Attached Files
                If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                  Hey Dave,

                  I figured if anyone could do a SBC swap, I'd be you... That's for sure! You've done so much with you car, a SBC should be 1-2-3...

                  Even though I drive sane, I did'nt want to have any frame "issues" (or at least try to avoid them) which is why I'm experimenting with the 2 dogbones in addition to the engine strut. (couldn't hurt...)

                  I had so many issues with my headers on the last 2 cars that I've decided against them in this swap. I['m using a 310 cid 305 in this swap that I built for a friends Monte SS about 8 years back and just under 33K miles ago. We used the Lunati 325HP 305 build from Popular Hotrodding and did pretty well. With a slight head shave, compression bump to 9.86:1 a .030 overbore, Lunati cam, lifters, Performer RPM intake, Long tube headers and 1.6 rockers, we dynoed the car at 311HP which wasn't bad for a little 305. When he decided to go big block in the SS, I wanted this engine back (to save me some time). - And you can't beat the price of FREE. But I did do the machine work for free at the time so I guess it payed off.

                  I actually went with a touch smaller cam so I could use cast iron exhaust manifolds and not have to deal with the leaky headers on this swap and instead went with a set of 2.5" Corvette Rams Horns instead. At the risk of sacrificing a bit of HP, I wanted to keep the engine bay a bit cooler and not have to keep playing around with cracked / rusted headers, collector gaskets, and exhaust leaks on this swap. I'm trying to shoot for something in the 265-280HP range on this one and make it a decent little ride that can be driven pretty well. My last one dynoed at 403HP and I thought it was a little too squirrelly on the street (as well as a hot running car.)

                  I've got a brand new set of Sanderson CC90's that I can Jet Hot and use if I ever decide to but I think I'll be happy with the cast Iron Rams Horns and a bit quieter exhaust on this one. I've also removed about 6" of depth from the trunk to utilize a Flowmaster 80 Series with 3" inlets and 2.5" outlets all "tucked" under the trunk area pretty neatly.

                  Although may do not like TBI Fuel Injection, I managed to secure a pristine wiring harness from a 94 LO5 LCI Caprice Cop car along with the TBI unit, intake, distributor and sensors. We recently modified the TBI and it's just about ready. I've got the harness on the table now going through it along with an ECM from a 1991 5 speed K-1500 truck. I'll be installing the engine with the carb to start but then doing a pretty simple F.I. Swap after everything is broken in.

                  I'll post some pics when I'm getting closer to finishing . Keep up the good work on your car. I look at those threads all the time. When I see that post that you considered selling, I really wanted that car.. Great work.. The best one out there for sure..

                  Brian
                  Attached Files
                  Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
                  Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                    A few More
                    Attached Files
                    Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
                    Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                      Brian:

                      I like the cast iron horns route as an alternative to headers. Did the headers you used leak at the bolt to head flange or elsewhere? O have plenty of room to do anything in the engine compartment. I added +3 to the cradle and removed the trunk.

                      Dave
                      If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                        Hey Dave,

                        Happy Holidays.

                        I think you should have plenty of room with your 3 extra inches. (boy .. that sounds pretty dirty...)


                        I didn't think it was a bad job replacing headers / gaskets but just more annoying than anything else.

                        In my case, it was the actual gaskets at the heads as well as the collector gaskets that were the problem. I also had a pair of headers crack (Sandersons) which was pretty expensive.

                        But . . .

                        At the time, the dead soft copper gaskets (and collector gaskets) and dead soft aluminum weren't really "mainstream" and Jet hot / ceramic coating was still pretty expensive.... especially on a set of headers that already cost $400 or so.

                        I think nowadays between a nice ceramic coated header, dead soft copper header gaskets etc, that my only issue would be some added heat in the engine bay which would be acceptable. I've heard of quite a few people that were still experiencing cracking with the Sanderson headers recently though (Sanderson headers also do not advise the use of gaskets at the head and are machined for a tight "metal to metal" fit - so they say ..... but I've found them not to seal as perfect as Sanderson suggests they do.

                        Also keep in mind that the style like the Sanderson CC-90 is really one of the only styles of header that will work (and I think the only style that will work with an auto trans if anyone was using one, due to their short length). The top pic below is (i'm about 98% sure).... V8fiero's pic of his ceramic coated Sanderson and then a set of standard SBC block headers that I've pieced together for a previous post.

                        There was a few guys on the Pennocks board that have modified the stock (and cheaper) SBC block headers and I'm sure that would be no problem for you as it wasn't for me. Just fire up the welder and "modify those tubes

                        However for me, I'm just not a real big fan of headers that are that short (The Sandersons). At least the block huggers have some length to them. Not exactly a great header but bearable. Certainly nowhere close to a longer tube design but not bad in a Fiero. The Sandersons, I just don't care for from a performance standpoint due to their 2 inner "very short / Non Existent tubes". Especially because I like to put an engine together to make good use of a particular header size, length and flow rate. The Sanderson tubes are just so Un-Equal it just really bothers me.

                        In the end though. I wasn't going for a 500HP killer 308 GTB replica and after dyno testing tons of different configurations, I feel that under the 350HP range, that the Sandersons, Block Huggers and Corvette Rams Horns will all do the job pretty well. In fact, even the cheaper 2" outlet standard rams horns will work fine. The older Truck rams horns are sometimes cheaper and have 2.25" outlets.


                        For the V8 swap I prefer something in the 1964-1967 range from a Corvette with a true 2.5" outlet but the others - especially the truck manifolds work fine too. I believe I used 2 LEFTS on one applications(they don't have the accessory bosses cast into them), but on this swap I used a RIGHT side for the manifold toward the rear of the car. I was toying around with using the 3 mounting holes to install a rubber isolated engine strut but the more I thought about it, I figured I would possibly just crack the cast Iron mounting ears off of the manifold.. so I scrapped that idea.


                        The Rams horns do sacrifice some HP that's for sure but I feel for my current application, something in the 280HP max range makes a nice combo of a good daily driver (if someone wanted), cool running, a lower less obnoxious exhaust note (lets face it, I'm 40 as of last month...). I think the Rams horns would do well right up to the 350-375HP range as in the older Vettes (and they do have a little "meat" that can be removed and smoothed if desired).

                        I guess it's all personal preference.

                        Brian

                        Attached Files
                        Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
                        Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                          Brian:

                          The set I had my eye on were the ones with the red slash through them. What do they hit? I am usine the 5 speed Getrag. It looks like they will be ok on the side toward the cockpit. I found a 400CU SMC. Should I pass and look for one of the older engines? I don't want a crate engine since I would feel better building one myself. Most truck engines were heavier castings and low compression. I found an old Pontiac 389 but I think that would run into challenges.

                          Dave
                          If you're not confused, you're not paying attention.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Wanted 308 / 328 Side Vent / Louvers / Sail Panel Vents

                            Hey there,,

                            The block huggers are usually ok on the back side (especially with a Getrag) but on the other side, the block huggers come very close to / hit the A/C lines / starter and the Remote Oil Filter Lines due to the angle of the outlet portion of the headers and the way that the starter is now located (as opposed to the stock location of the stock starter on a SBC). Usually though (if you want to) you can cut the collector area and modify the outlet portion so that it is higher and angled a bit more toward the "Bulkhead". Without goofing with the outlet areas you run out of room real quick to attach the headpipes / rest of the exhaust.

                            I never thought it was a big deal. Just a little more custom work and again, it really does depend on the owner. I for one (since I'm a Olds Guy) would really love to use an Olds 350 longitudinally mounted with a flipped TH-425 in a modified car. Although I really don't care for Auto's, I really know my way around the Olds 455's and 350's and could really build a nice little torque monster for the track. I love the Fiero Addiction site with his projects with the longitudinal mounted setup.

                            Quite a few have used the SBC 400 but the 400 utilizes a huge / thick harmonic balancer since the 400 engine is externally balanced, Even though many have used the 400, I was always curious as to how everything holds up when you remove the large balancer for Archie's small Balancer pulley (unless they modified and rebalanced the crank, flywheel / flexplate etc). My first replica was a poor running SBC 400 when I bought it so I never ran it long enough to see how it would hold up. I yanked it and built the 350 for it.

                            I agree with you. While the crate engines are a nice easy "drop in", Dollar for Dollar I can build a nice SBC quite a bit cheaper. Don't get me wrong, they are a decent value but I'd rather build something with specs that I've used in the past (and that I've had a chance to dyno / test).

                            Even though I was really fine with a carb, I love the idea of Fuel Injection. I really don't care for the "operating range" and torque characteristics of the GM TPI setup and I've never really liked the way it looks in a replica (just my personal preference). Since I've had quite a few trucks I can see why GM never offered the TPI in any of the older trucks of that era but instead used the TBI which I (and quite a few others) really feel does well with an engine with quite a bit of low end torque. Slightly modified, they will support up to about 375 HP and the reliability of the TBI is great. (It's also nice that a stock Fiero 4cyl fuel pump is perfect for the application and the wiring harness , ESC, sensors, Distributor and ECM is pretty straight forward.

                            I think the 400 would be fine depending on price. My preference is to use (for a street car) a 1987 or newer SBC with the 1 pc rear main seal. For anything "crazy fast", I'd stick with an older block and decent heads. I don't mind the older truck casting for the block but as you mention, the C/R is usually lower and the heads (for the most part) are marginal at best. By the time you pick up a decent set of pistons and heads for a 400, a crate Long Block 350 and related parts turns out to be cheaper and less work.

                            In my case, the L-69 305 was stock 9.5:1 with stock flat top pistons and 58cc chamber heads. After we milled the heads , for a "cleanup" and installed with .025 headgaskets we had this little guy up over 9.8:1. The overbore gave us a little bump to 310cid and the 305 does also like a little over-camming as well- within reason. I also replaced the stock 1.84 intake valves with 1.94's and did a little clean-up. - Not that I'm pushing a 305, it's just that I had it available for no cost and pretty much hit the mark that I was looking for. I feel it's better to start with as much displacement as possible in most cases.

                            What I really love (and have heard good reviews about) is a newer LS1 converted over to Carb. There are a few kits out there that include carb, intake, distributor and related "stuff" and it seems that it's a nice powerplant in carb form as well as it is Fuel Injected. This and a long block crate engine or nice long block donor make for a pretty efficient combo.

                            I think a "good old" SBC with decent cam and intake is really the best value for a SBC swap. A nice 355, 377 or 383 is also very appealing to me. For me, I'll sacrifice a little HP in these light cars to build an engine with quite a bit of low and mid range torque. I think they make for a better overall feel.

                            Previous Builds: AF - 308 Replica w/ V8 & GM F-body Testarossa Replica
                            Current Toys: 308 V8 Project #2, 91 V-12 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe. 1983 Hurst\Olds, 1979 Trans/AM - 468CID Bracket Car.

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